Alberni Valley
– Winter

I’ve been to and through Port Alberni several times, for winter steelhead fishing trips and en route to Bamfield or Tofino, but it has been a few years since I’ve had the chance to spend any amount of time there. In fact, the last time my husband, Pat, and I stayed in town for a steelhead trip there was only one local brewery compared to the three breweries and a craft distillery now serving the residents and visitors in the area. It was definitely time for a return visit, and to try out a different winter fishery as well. So, we hopped on a ferry from Tsawwassen to Duke Point, and headed down Highway 4 across Vancouver Island to the Alberni Valley. 

We were warmly greeted by a bustling tasting room, with tables full of folks enjoying flights, pints, and food that got our mouths watering. Having opened in 2021, this was a new-to-us stop, and we were excited to sample the extensive beer list.

We ordered our first flights which included a wide range of styles from the light and refreshing Don Pedro Lager to the Alberni Smash Pale Ale and Islands Way Stout, and everything in between.

We dived into our meals when they arrived – a burger for Pat and a California chicken sub for me – and agreed that the food was excellent. Just what we needed after a day in the truck! Full and happy, I decided to take a moment to explore the tasting room. Our server and Front of House Manager, Kianna, showed me around. We had passed one outdoor patio on our way in, but she also pointed out a second covered and heated patio on the other side of the tasting room. With cozy seating and string lights for ambiance, I could definitely see myself spending some time relaxing there in all seasons. She also noted the large open space running along the front of the building and explained the summer plans for turf, picnic tables, games, and all-around good times.

When I got back to our table, it was time for me to order a second flight – with 15 beers on tap, one flight just wasn’t enough to sate my curiosity. We were both impressed with the quality and consistency of the wide variety of styles. And although Alberni Brewing isn’t packaging their beer in cans (yet!) we were able to fill a growler to go.

We headed off to check in to our hotel, the Best Western Plus Barclay Hotel, and get some rest to be ready for a full day of exploring. The hotel was clean and comfortable, with everything we needed for our stay (most importantly: a mini fridge to keep our growler cold until we headed home!)

The Broken Bow, located in the Arts District at Alberni Harbour Quay, is known for being a 100% gluten free restaurant. Neither of us has the need for that dietary accommodation, but what drew us to this spot were the rave reviews, the intriguing specials, and the fact that almost everything on the menu is made from scratch in house. The restaurant is cozy but vibrant and adorned with imaginative nautical-themed artistic touches. I went with the bacon-and-egg chimichurri bun while Pat chose the huevos rancheros. Both meals were incredibly flavourful and fresh, and the perfect amount of filling. We finished up our coffees while discussing our plan for the rest of the day.

We wanted to explore the two quays, public art, and historic stops around town, as well as head out to Sproat Lake to see the petroglyphs. It was still early, so we decided to head to the lake first, and explore the town once more shops had opened.

Sproat Lake Provincial Park is just a short drive from town along Highway 4 and is home to one of the oldest petroglyphs in BC. As we drove into the park and headed to the day use area, we saw a group of hardy campers set up with tents and awnings, and a fleet of mountain bikes. A few riders were just returning to the camp, muddy but smiling.

We parked and headed off towards the petroglyphs along a well-maintained, flat gravel path bordering the lake. It was an overcast, not-quite-foggy day, which gave us moody views of the silent, flat lake. It was incredibly peaceful, but we could imagine how lovely it would be in the summer as well with many spots along the trail perfect for a picnic and a swim.

As we rounded one corner, we got a view of a massive seaplane across the lake. We guessed that it had to be a waterbomber, based on the sheer size and large underbelly. A bit of quick googling told us we were correct. Sproat Lake is home to two of the famed Martin Mars water bombers, now retired and no longer in use: the Philippine Mars (retired in 2012) and the Hawaii Mars (retired in 2015), the latter of which is the only air-worthy Martin Mars left in the world. The massive water tankers — 120 feet long and 40 feet high with a 200-foot wing span — fought fires in B.C. and other provinces for over half a century. They could dump about 27,000 litres of water in a single drop. 

*Editor’s note: The Hawaii Martin Mars headed for its new forever home at the BC Aviation Museum in North Saanich in August 2024 while the Philippine Martin Mars’ planned departure for Prima Air & Space Museum in Tucson Arizona is slated for December 2024.

We continued along the pathway, belatedly realizing that the high water levels we noticed near the parking lot were looking a lot higher the longer we walked. We soon encountered a massive puddle taking up most of the path and had to edge carefully around it. In the week leading up to our trip, most of the coast was hit with massive rainfalls, and this part of the Island was clearly no exception. A short distance on, we came to an even larger puddle that completely blocked the path. Just ahead, we could see the dock that allows boaters to directly access the rock wall with the petroglyphs… but it was jutting up at an awkward, disjointed angle. Clearly, the water levels were much higher than normal! We met another walker, a local, who confirmed that water levels were exceptionally high – just our luck to have the poor timing of visiting on the rare occasion that the petroglyphs were inaccessible. Defeated, we turned back and decided to continue our walk around the lake in the other direction. We enjoyed the tranquility and views for a while longer before heading back to continue exploring Port Alberni proper.

After we got home, we were able to look up some photos of the petroglyphs to see what we missed. There’s something so intriguing about the carvings, and I’m itching to head back another time and see them in person.

We headed back to the Rotary Arts District and Harbour Quay to start our wanderings. With a variety of small and large shops ranging from marine mechanics and sales to restaurants, cafes, and delightful local artisan storefronts, the area had gotten decidedly busier during our morning walk at Sproat Lake. We wandered the shops, looking over the boats at the Fisherman’s Harbour nearby, and wondering which we would be fishing from the following day. We walked down to the Quay, taking in the moody views over the ocean inlet and speculating about the fishery we would get to experience. From the Quay, we had a great view of the walkway surrounding the Arts District on the waterfront, featuring the tall clock tower and viewing deck, decorated with several carvings, as well as the historic lighthouse a little further down the inlet.

The Quay is also home to the year-round, weekly Spirit Square Farmers’ Market, which runs every Saturday from 9:00am – 12:00pm. Though much smaller during the winter than the summer events and despite the grey weather, the market nonetheless drew in shoppers from the groups wandering the Quay. After browsing our way through the local baking, honey, pickles, and crochet items, we decided to continue to the lighthouse and Maritime Discovery Centre.

A few historic boats sit on blocks next to the Centre and the neighbouring Ken Hutchison Gallery. One was rebuilt after having spent 40 years underwater, sunk on Sproat Lake. The second, and my favourite of the two, is the Tatoosh II – a diminutive and frankly adorable little boom boat from the 1950s that was once used for moving lumber on the water.

One piece of Port Alberni history that can’t be ignored is the tsunami that devastated the Alberni Valley in 1964. The aftermath of a 9.2-magnitude earthquake in Alaska – the strongest to ever hit North America – several waves ranging in size from 1.5 metres up to 3 metres travelled up the Alberni Inlet and destroyed homes and businesses, leaving a lasting mark on what was at the time two cities: Alberni and Port Alberni. During the years of reconstruction and recovery, the two municipalities amalgamated to become Port Alberni as we know it now, which also gave rise to the “Twin City” nickname you will likely come across at some point when visiting. The repercussions of the initial disaster are still visible today in the signage around the city pointing to evacuation routes.

We spent quite a bit of time reading through the Lighthouse Pier panels, which cover everything from the ships that once operated on the inlet to the history of the industry in the area that eventually grew into the current-day facilities still in operation.

I’d say that most days it’s a toss-up for both Pat and me to choose a favourite: seafood or smoked meats. When we found Bare Bones Fish House and Smokery – specializing in both – we knew it was an absolute must for lunch. And believe it or not, this is another 100% gluten-free kitchen.

The first thing that struck us was the architectural beauty of the restaurant itself. The building was a church in its past life, with some of the pews still in use as bench seating. Choosing our meals proved to be another challenge. How do you narrow it down between fresh seafood and smoked BBQ? We eventually decided to share a few appetizers; that way we could sample the best of both worlds. Our meal paired perfectly with the Long Lost Lager from Dog Mountain Brewing. It was our first taste of their beers and got us even more excited for our dinner plans that evening.

Our next waterfront stop was Victoria Quay, home to two significant installations: the Nuu-chah-nulth whaling monument and the Nuu-chah-nulth welcome figure.

Protected by a greenhouse-like structure, the whaling monument is a large diorama depicting a group of Nuu-chah-nulth whalers and their grey whale prey. Whales and whaling were once a significant part of the Nuu-chah-nulth way of life. They not only brought people from all over the Pacific northwest to trade for the resulting products like oil, blubber, meat and whale-bone tools, but were also integral to the community itself as a spiritual practice and a marker of status. The details of the canoe itself, carved in yellow cedar, and the replicas of the tools that would have been used were captivating. It is absolutely mind-blowing to think that eight warriors in a 30-foot canoe, armed with nothing more than basic lances and harpoons, would not only pursue a massive whale but actually harvest them on a regular basis.

In the same Quay, we also got a closer look at the welcome figures, created by Hupačasath carvers. The Alberni Valley is located on the traditional territory of the Tseshaht First Nation and Hupačasath First Nation, two of the fourteen nations of the Nuu-chah-nulth people of western Vancouver Island.

“These welcome figures are based on those that would be placed on the beach in front of a village or a big house to greet guests invited to special events.” (Indigenous Public Art). This makes perfect sense: the figures sit on the waterfront of the inlet, at the base of Highway 4 which carves a straight line through the northern side of town and continues on to the west coast.

I was equally excited for our second brewery stop as I had been for the first since it’s another one we hadn’t had the chance to visit yet.

The bright exterior stands out along the street, and we could see a busy tasting room through the window as we approached. Dog Mountain Brewing is well-known for its rooftop patio, but we elected to enjoy our first flight in the cozy and eclectic tasting room, though I did quickly sneak up to the patio to take a couple of sunset photos before it got too dark. 

We snagged a table next to the Pac-Man machine and admired the unique, handcrafted guitars hanging behind us. The colourful décor around the inviting space gave off a distinctly casual, come-as-you-are vibe that we really loved. There was no pretension to be found. We didn’t think twice about grabbing a deck of cards to keep our ongoing card game battles going while we sipped our way through the first flights of beer. The donairs we ordered for dinner arrived a short while later — they were packed full of flavour and really hit the spot.

Between running food orders and helping pour beers, co-founder and head brewer Robin Richards stopped by our table to say hi. The brewery opened in 2019, a few short months before the pandemic hit. Robin explained that despite the struggles they faced, some of the changes that they were forced to make ended up being blessings in disguise. They hadn’t planned on packaging their brews for the first couple of years, instead intending to focus on building their client base through the tasting room, and offering growler fills. However, they had to pivot to find a way to get their beer into customers’ hands, which led them to a single-head canner that they have heavily modified for speed and efficiency. In fact, Robin’s partner Andy became such an expert at working on their canning line that he regularly offers support to other breweries with the same model who want to either make modifications or need a hand troubleshooting.

Another push was finishing the giant rooftop patio ahead of schedule to allow for an outdoor space when things started to open up. Speaking of which, since the tasting room was already full and more folks were pouring in who wanted to stay downstairs, we decided to move up to the patio for a bit. 

To reach the patio, you have to walk past the tasting room kitchen and through the brewery itself. I got a good look at the infamous canner, as well as the snug space that Robin has to work with on her brew days. I am in awe at what she is able to create with the space she has allotted! Once through the brewery and out the back door, the patio is accessed by side stairs. On my earlier brief foray to the patio, Andy and Robin were hard at work on the building next door. (And yes, I did say that Robin was helping in the tasting room after that as well, mind you that was before she was about to head off to an Alberni Bulldogs hockey game – I very quickly got the impression that Robin doesn’t slow down!) 

Robin explained that the house next door had been for sale for some time, and eventually she and Andy decided it was perfect for a Dog Mountain expansion. It will take some work, but once completed it will house their cold storage for kegs and cans, and other production-related ingredients and equipment. It won’t be a customer-facing space but will allow for a larger canning line and make things easier for beer production and back-of-house operations overall. The front yard will also be converted to a picnic area, and Robin’s vision for the space includes permanent games (twister, anyone?).

The view from the patio is, indeed, lovely, and the cozy, relaxed atmosphere of the covered and heated portion of the patio made us feel right at home. There is a second pouring station upstairs, so the already busy staff don’t have to run full orders of beers up and down the stairs, along with a selection of picnic tables and more comfortable seating areas. 

Eventually, we tore ourselves away to head to our next stop, but not without loading up on 4-packs to go. The beer is seriously tasty, and not something we are able to find in the Fraser Valley, so I was not letting the opportunity to bring some home pass me by.

After dropping our vehicle off at the hotel, we cabbed over to our final stop of the evening: Antidote Distilling. Newly opened just a few months before our visit, Antidote has clearly made a great first impression on Port Alberni. The tasting lounge was busy, with folks enjoying meals from the locally- and seasonally-inspired menu or, like us, after-dinner cocktails.

We were greeted by the head chef, Ryan, and introduced to Matt, the operations manager who is also one of the distillers and bartenders. Matt explained that since Antidote is a small company and still so new, everyone was happy to pitch in where they are needed. So on extra busy nights, Ryan might be greeting guests at the door, while Matt was clearly in his element mixing unique cocktails with the spirits that he had also distilled.

We looked through bespoke, soft leather menus with quirky and eccentric custom illustrations for both the kitchen and the bar, and quickly decided that next time we visit Port Alberni, we’ll be stopping at Antidote for dinner.

We chatted with our server who recommended a few options for us that would give us the chance to experience the full range of flavours in their gins, as well as some of their signature creations. Antidote currently makes three spirits: a London dry gin, a black gin, and black truffle vodka. And it’s easy to get swept up in their enthusiasm for the sustainability and local focus behind their creations, keeping things house-made rather than mass-produced, and locally sourced and foraged whenever possible.

Instead of using commercially purchased lemons and limes, which have a larger-than-you’d-think carbon footprint due to the long distances they are shipped, they have created what they call a “science solution”: house-made citric acid. They’ve created their own quince liquor to replace cognac for use in the kitchen and behind the bar, and have also come up with a tasty (and visually pretty) house-made fruit roll-up that garnishes the Taylor Made cocktail.

What I found most interesting is the combination of botanicals used in the black gin. In addition to the usual juniper, they include salal berries foraged on Haida Gwaii, a mushroom blend foraged on Vancouver Island, rooibos tea, and spruce. It pours a vibrant deep violet colour when mixed, and tastes simply incredible.

We savoured our cocktails and were thoroughly entertained watching Matt work his magic behind the bar, but the highlight had to be when a custom cocktail with the BC Ale Trail logo was delivered to our table to finish off the night. I’m still not sure how they did that, but it was an evening – and cocktail – to remember.

We headed for Boomerang’s Café, another well-known breakfast stop – and were surprised to see quite a few other diners up just as early on a weekend. A good sign we’d made a good choice.

We both ordered eggs benedict, and I gratefully sipped my coffee. I don’t mind an early morning when it’s for something fun like fishing, but believe me when I say coffee is essential on those days.

Our meals were hearty and filling, and fueled us up for a day of adventure. Next stop: Fisherman’s Harbour.

We met our guide, Cole from Action Packed Charters, at the dock, loaded up the boat, and were quickly on our way.

As we cruised down the Alberni Inlet, Cole told us about some of the communities along the inlet that Action Packed also services as a water taxi. Some collections of waterfront cabins are only accessible by boat, others by less than ideal gravel roads, so travel by water is an appealing option. We also passed an old derelict ship docked at a logging landing that looked like a massive commercial vessel, or maybe even something vaguely military. Cole told us that it was made of wood, which we found hard to believe until we got a closer look. A curiosity for sure.

We travelled on to Nahmint Bay where Cole had set some crab traps the day prior. We checked them, and found only a few small crustaceans lingering. If left too long in the water, crabs will finish munching on the bait and then spend their time finding a way back out of the trap, which they are surprisingly good at. Often a shorter soak (the amount of time traps are left in the water) can be more productive. Cole reset the traps with fresh bait, and got the salmon gear ready.

When most people think of fishing in the Alberni inlet, they think of summer salmon fishing, particularly the well-known Sockeye runs that come through the area en route to their spawning grounds. Summer and early fall can undoubtedly produce some great opportunities, but winter Spring (another name for Chinook) fishing can be productive as well. Some people, myself among them, find that the meat from winter Springs is sweeter, firmer, and overall makes for wonderful table fare.

Fishing strategy changes a bit between seasons: in the summer, fish are on a mission, travelling with a particular destination in mind and, in general, anglers will focus on underwater structures which guide those fish highways. In the winter, resident fish are basically just hanging out, looking for their next meal. So finding bait fish or other food sources can be key. One way to do this is by fishing the mouths of creeks and inlets, like the Nahmint, which often provide their own food sources and habitat for smaller organisms that salmon want to feed on. Another way is to watch the birds. A flock of birds congregated in one spot on the water is likely to mean a bait ball (school of small bait fish) is swimming below.

Cole set the gear, and we started trolling the bay. The water was beautifully calm, and we could see the odd sliver of blue sky peeking through the remains of the previous day’s clouds. That ubiquitous west coast mist was flowing over the hills that surrounded the inlet, and it was perfectly peaceful.

Then one of our rods began to bounce: we had our first fish on. Winter spring fishing can require a bit of patience. There are fewer fish in the water, undeniably, and they can be hard to find. But when you do, fishing can be amazing. And it seemed to me, we were at the start of one of those days!

I landed a small chinook, unfortunately too small to keep, and we quickly released it back to the water. Another aspect to keep in mind with winter fishing are the size limits: because you are targeting resident fish who aren’t necessarily mature, regulations are in place in most areas to protect these populations. Fish need to be a certain length, measured from the tip of their nose to the fork of their tail, in order to be retained.

No problem for me, simply having landed a fish makes the day a success in my books. We continued trolling the bay and out into the inlet, missing a bite or two, as the sun continued to burn through the clouds.

By the end of the afternoon, we were basking in full sun, enjoying the calm waters, and sharing more than a few laughs. We landed and released a ling cod, which are closed to all retention in the area, and lost another fish that had some good weight to it. Towards the end of the day, I landed a lovely little spring that fit the size limit and was put in the fish box to become a future dinner.

We finished off the day by pulling the crab traps again. They were much fuller this time around, and we were able to keep a couple to bring home as well. There are also size limits for crabs, measured from spiny-tip to spiny-tip across their shells, and a ban on keeping females. This measurement can vary from area to area as well, so if you don’t fish with a guide it’s imperative to check the regulations carefully before heading out on the water.

For both Pat and me, the ocean is a place of pure contentment, and solace during hard times, where we can recharge and relax. Having spent a day in the sun, enjoying the gentle rocking of calm waters, laughing and chatting with another skilled fisherman whose passion for the sport was evident, was truly fuel for the soul as well as providing a meal for the freezer. We could not have asked for a better way to spend the day.

We said our farewells to Cole, wished him luck in the coming summer season, and headed back to the hotel to clean up and change before dinner.

Our final brewery stop of the trip was one that we’ve had the pleasure of enjoying before: Twin City Brewing. We arrived to yet another bustling tasting room with tables full of families and friends enjoying beers and house-made pizzas.

Even though we have been to Twin City before, it had been a while, and there were new beers on tap that we hadn’t tried before. Once again, flights were in order. As we sipped, we noted a few changes to the space since our previous visit: the seating area was slightly larger, but the view to the brewery and kitchen were still unimpeded. I love the breweries that create their spaces in a way that allows visitors to see the brewing process, to smell the malts and the hops as a brew day progresses. I believe that it helps to put a face behind the brews, and to cement the notion of what the “craft” in craft beer really means. But I digress.

We debated for a while between two of the pizza specials on offer – one a returning crowd favourite, and the other a new creation. In the end, our wonderful server Carla suggested doing half and half, which was clearly the best solution.

And I have to hand it to her, Carla knew her stuff when it came to the beer as well. I have a tenuous and vaguely unpalatable relationship with Belgian beers (I can hear some of you gasping and grumbling…). I can recognize and appreciate a well-brewed Belgian Dubbel or Trippel, but if I get the slightest hint of banana from the yeast phenols, I’m out. So, I don’t often try them in flights, I prefer to stick with styles that I’m more likely to enjoy. However, when ordering my second flight I was having a hard time choosing a final beer to fill in the line-up. Carla strongly recommended the Grimoire Strong Belgian Ale and man did it deliver. Warming, spicy, beautifully malty, but very well balanced so as not to be too sweet. I might just be a Belgian Ale convert.

We sipped our brews, content and stuffed with pizza, and chatted with the staff more about the brewery. They hinted at some upcoming changes but couldn’t tell us more than that. A few days later, after we returned home, we saw the headlines that they had been hinting at: Twin City will be opening a second location in Port Alberni! Between the award-winning beers, tasty food, and overall great atmosphere, I’m sure that a second location will be just as busy as the original.

Pescadores Bistro is housed in the cutest little building, with a patio that I could see in the summer would feel like sitting in a hidden garden. Everywhere I looked, I could see some sort of fish or ocean-themed décor. Colourful canvases, large metal sculptures, little trees made from driftwood. Despite the plethora of colours and styles, it didn’t come off as kitschy, rather more like a cozy, well-loved seaside cabin.

Our meals were once again incredible. I was feeling inspired by our surroundings and went with the seafood omelette. It was so stuffed with BC Dungeness crab and shrimp that I could only get through about half.

We started heading back along Highway 4 towards Parksville with a plan to make a stop at Cathedral Grove on the way. The highway itself between Port Alberni and Macmillan Provincial Park winds through coastal rainforest, surrounded by tall trees draped in layers of thick moss. Cathedral Grove has the reputation of being even more spectacular, and since neither of us had ever stopped there before we thought it was high time to check it out.

In the summer, the parking areas that flank both sides of the highway are always full of cars and people. Travelling in the shoulder-season has a distinct advantage: we easily found parking. It was another misty, not-quite-foggy day, but that didn’t seem to be a deterrent for the other dozen or so groups who parked at the trailheads.

Just how interesting could some big trees really be? Believe it or not: awe-inspiring.

We chose to do the Cathedral Loop, which takes visitors past the largest tree in the park. Walking the well-groomed, flat gravel path was easy going. The thick moss that carpeted trees and fence railings seemed to dampen sound, making us feel like we were deep in a secluded forest all alone despite being only a short walk from the highway. Walking among massive trees that are hundreds of years old made me think of a Tolkien novel, or maybe a moody scene from one of James Cameron’s alien planets.

The “Big Tree,” as it is simply named, really lives up to its moniker. When the signage along the trail was put up, it measured around 76m tall and 9m around, though given the age of the sign I’m sure it has grown even larger in the intervening years. Apparently, it is over 800 years old! It’s really hard to wrap your head around just how long it takes for something to grow that large, and the fact that it’s a healthy, living organism is really incredible.

We continued wandering the trails for a while, enjoying the quiet and the pure, simple nature. The Cathedral Loop joins up with the Living Forest Trail, which takes you for a brief while along the Cameron River. On the other side of the highway, the Old Growth Trail takes visitors to Cameron Lake. Unfortunately, we had to carry on to catch a ferry, but decided that next time we would explore the loop to Cameron Lake.

“Next time” seemed to be a regular phrase during this trip. “Next time” we want to try the food at Antidote Distilling. “Next time” we should do both types of fishing: a day with Cole on the inlet, and a second day steelhead fishing the Stamp River, a trip we’ve enjoyed in years past. “Next time” we should do another winter or shoulder-season trip – the fishing is great, and a good rain jacket means you can still explore where you like. “Next time” we have to leave ourselves enough time to visit all three breweries again, because they all have something unique to offer and enjoy beyond the tasty brews.

Until next time, farewell Port Alberni!