Crafting
Adventure:

…a lot of you have probably “been to” Port Alberni but, like me, just used it as a refuelling spot for you and your car on the way to Tofino. “Why would I stop and stay in the inlet city when I can keep driving towards beach vibes on the peninsula?”

Well, I’m here to tell you it’s time to start booking your next vacation to the town that keeps Vancouver Island in one piece! Seriously, look at the map, the Alberni Inlet almost splits the entire island in two. 

Sit back, or lean in if you’re farsighted, and get ready to read up on the three-night adventure my family and I enjoyed in what I proclaim to be the outdoor adventure capital of Vancouver Island!

After a short day at work that went longer than anticipated, I hastily used my childhood Tetris skills to pack the car and we hit the road on our Alberni Valley adventure. We had a 4:00 pm ferry to catch out of Horseshoe Bay towards Nanaimo and we were already running behind schedule. Here’s a tip from a seasoned ferry riding veteran: always get a reservation. It’s only $20 and when you’re sitting in hours-long lines with the sun blazing overhead and kids complaining in the back seat, you’d be willing to give up a limb to board that next boat. Luckily we arrived in time and almost drove straight on to the ferry. Perfect timing, just like I’d planned it.

Because we had dinner plans in the itinerary later that evening we were thankfully able to avoid the stampede to the onboard White Spot restaurant. Instead, we picked a window seat at the bow of the boat (that’s the front for all the non-nauticals reading this) and watched the beautiful coastal BC scenery slip by. Here’s another ferry tip: if you do eat on the boat, order the Pirate Pack. Yes, it’s a kid’s menu option but it’s almost the same amount of food for a fraction of the price. Plus you get a chocolate coin and a cool cardboard pirate ship to play with, arrrr!

As the hour-and-forty-minute sailing arrived at Departure Bay we all rushed to the washrooms to empty our bladders for the 80 km drive to Port Alberni. In classic dad fashion, I’m not going to stop at a gas station for pee breaks only to watch all the trucks I passed on the highway get ahead of us.

The drive through MacMillan Provincial Park and Cathedral Grove was a highlight of the trip. I’ve done the drive in the past but it had been a while and I had forgotten how those towering old-growth Douglas Fir trees line the road, creating a majestic tunnel of greenery with the late-afternoon sun peeking through. Still in awe of the commute we had just experienced, we arrived at the Hospitality Inn around 7:30pm and quickly pulled all our bags out of the car. Our tummies were rumbling and we needed to fill them up. Thankfully, the front-desk attendant at the hotel checked us in effortlessly so we could drop our bags and head back out to our first stop in Port Alberni, Twin City Brewing.

I had stopped at Twin City once before on my way to Tofino and I remember falling in love with the pizza. This second visit did not disappoint! Their pizza was once again phenomenal, especially the Maui Wowee with prosciutto, mozzarella, and pineapple — a perfect balance of sweet and savoury. The seasonal offering, Peachy Keen, was equally delicious featuring fresh peaches and prosciutto. We also indulged in the Gnarly Garlies, addictive little garlic bread bites with a sweet donair dipping sauce. We love that Twin City offers half-and-half pizzas, allowing you to not have to make tough decisions while hangry.

The beer selection was equally impressive. I savoured a Big Yikes Double IPA followed by a Nocturne Belgian Quad, arguably one of the best I’ve ever had in that style. For a refreshing non-alcoholic option, Jen (aka; Mrs. Thirsty Explorer) enjoyed the Two To Mango mocktail, perfect for a warm summer evening. The kids had a blast playing Apples to Apples from the restaurant’s game stack, adding a touch of friendly competition to the meal. Obviously, I won (just don’t ask my family if I did).

With full bellies and happy hearts, we strolled down the street to the Victoria Quay to witness the breathtaking sunset as the fading light shimmered over the Somass River. It was a picture-perfect ending to our first night in Port Alberni.

Our first stop was Pescadores Bistro where a much-needed cuppa joe gave me my morning jump start. The kids devoured their French Toast, Jen opted for the Traditional Breakfast, and I couldn’t resist a stack of three fluffy pancakes covered in syrup — you can’t go wrong with pancakes! The bistro’s charming patio, surrounded by vibrant flowers, offered a delightful setting for our breakfast, perfectly situated across the street from the Somass River boardwalk where we had watched the sun set the night before.

After that stack of pancakes, we needed to burn some energy. Sproat Lake was our next destination, where we planned to explore the K’ak’awin Petroglyphs — ancient carvings etched on to rock by Indigenous peoples of the area.

The exact age of the K’ak’awin Petroglyphs remains a mystery, as is the case with many carvings like these in British Columbia. Sadly, due to water erosion and fluctuating temperatures, these precious pieces of history are slowly disappearing. Visiting this beautiful site and witnessing these carvings firsthand is a privilege that everyone should experience if they can.

Another fascinating attraction at Sproat Lake is the “Hawaii Mars,” a Martin Mars Water Bomber stationed in the water. As a kid, I vividly remember hearing about these massive water bombers fighting fires across the country and even as far south as California. One made a memorable appearance dropping water over Coal Harbour during the 2010 Vancouver Olympics. The mighty “Hawaii Mars” is no longer fighting fires and is soon to be relocated to its new permanent home at the British Columbia Aviation Museum in Victoria, where it will be featured in their “BC Wildfire Aviation” exhibit. If you’re keen on seeing this historic aircraft before it leaves Sproat Lake, a trip to Port Alberni is in order this summer or fall.

As inviting as the warm waters of Sproat Lake were, we reluctantly skipped a dip as lunch reservations and afternoon adventures awaited. However, we did have enough time to check out the Alberni Valley Museum on our way back into town. 

While I sometimes approach local community museums with a touch of skepticism, the Alberni Valley Museum blew me away! It houses a treasure trove of fascinating artifacts, offering a glimpse into the history of the Alberni Valley. From exhibits showcasing the First Nations peoples who inhabited the region to local sports memorabilia, heritage farming equipment, and a special art exhibition featuring work from Vancouver Island artists, there was much more than I expected from a small community museum. They even had interactive displays and games to keep the kids engaged. Considering the suggested entry donation of only $5, this museum easily ranks as one of the best bang-for-your-buck activities. It’s also a great way to keep entertained while escaping the summer heat.

For lunch, we continued our culinary adventure at the Clam Bucket — and it’s not just a clever name. You can literally order a big bucket of clams or mussels. We decided on the latter as we prefer the more tender texture of mussels over clams. We paired our hearty bucket-o-mussels with a plate of juicy prawns and washed it down with a refreshing pint. The Clam Bucket also offers a covered patio, a welcome respite from the scorching sun.

Our stomachs satiated from our seafood spread, it was time for the experience I’d been nervously anticipating since I first saw the trip itinerary: gliding! Living in the Fraser Valley, I’ve often gazed up at gliders silently soaring over my house, wondering what it would feel like to be up there. Now, my chance had finally arrived.

We met Warwick, the owner of Vancouver Island Soaring Centre, at a hangar in the Alberni Valley Regional Airport. After a short drive down the runway, he introduced us to the glider that would be carrying us through the skies for the next hour. Following a thorough safety briefing and a few excited high-fives, I found myself nestled in the front cockpit with Warwick at the controls behind me. As I waved goodbye to my family (sorry kids, this one was a dad-only adventure), the Piper Pawnee tow plane in front of us pulled us steadily into the sky.

Once we reached the desired altitude and found some thermals to keep us soaring, we said “adios” to Piper and were left on our own to fly with the eagles… literally! As we soared over the Beaufort Mountain Range, we were joined by an unexpected and awe-inspiring entourage: a convocation (I had to look that word up) of five eagles. Sharing the sky with these magnificent birds was an experience I’ll never forget.

As we left our feathered friends behind, Warwick pointed out geographical landmarks and shared stories about his journey into gliding. We chatted about how much more he prefers gliding over flying a motorized aircraft, emphasizing the added thrill and challenge of seeking out thermals in ever-changing conditions.

Then came the unexpected, Warwick offered me the controls! A whirlwind of questions raced through my mind. Do I need a license? Flight simulator hours? I thought I couldn’t legally fly an aircraft because of my colour blindness? But then reality kicked in. When would I ever get another chance like this? With clear and calm instructions from Warwick, I found myself navigating the glider through the sky. While I didn’t exactly perform any loops or barrel rolls, I did receive compliments on my smooth gliding and turns, earning me the self-proclaimed title of “Captain Thirsty.”

The entire gliding experience was truly amazing and one I’ll never forget. The Vancouver Island Soaring Centre team struck the perfect balance between professionalism and friendliness, creating an amazing atmosphere for a first time glider. Soaring silently through the sky, taking in the breathtaking Vancouver Island scenery, was an incredibly serene experience. I wholeheartedly recommend gliding as a must-try adventure for anyone seeking a unique and unforgettable memory.

How do I come down from that adrenaline rush? Maybe a little hike or a refreshing dip in a cold river? How about both? Our next adventure led us to Stamp River Falls, which is about a 20-minute drive from downtown Port Alberni. It was around this time that we came to the realization that everything in Port Alberni is either 5 minutes away or 20 minutes away. There’s no in-between. Our short hike took us up through the forest and past the fish ladder, which helps salmon get up the falls during spawning season. Following the river’s edge we eventually passed the waterfall and hiked up to a lookout over the falls. It was a beautiful view but by this point we were hot and sweaty and needed to cool down. We trekked back down the trail and found a perfectly calm spot in the river to go for a dip.

Everything was going smoothly until we heard the blood-curdling screams of our daughter. She wasn’t getting chased by a bear or getting swept away down the river, but rather had spotted a crayfish in the water. After proclaiming “I am NOT going back in there,” we eventually did get her to come back out to swim. We just had to check to make sure there were no river crabs anywhere nearby. Meanwhile, my son was trying to catch one, asking if we could fry it up for dinner.

Wait, did you hear that?! What was that burbling sound? Oh, that was just my stomach. Time for dinner! We dried off in the parking lot and headed back to the Hospitality Inn for a quick shower and to change our clothes. Tonight, we were going to dine at the best view in town, Dog Mountain Brewing.

Dog Mountain’s tasting room is up near the top of the hill on 3rd Avenue, and, by what can only be attributed to kismet, they’re located in an old U-Brew location, keeping the beer flowing on 3rd Avenue. The owners, Robin and Andy, have transformed the space adding an incredible partially covered rooftop patio, a total game-changer for sunny days. They also had water misters blasting, which was a welcome sight on the hot day we were having. My son decided to park himself right in front of one essentially making himself look like he just went for a fully clothed swim.

We dove right into the menu, ordering a variety of dishes. My Halifax-style donair with sweet sauce was a total hit, Jen loved the chicken souvlaki, and the kids devoured the beer mac and cheese and soft pretzel with cheese dipping sauce. Everything was delicious, but that donair definitely stole the show.

Beer-wise, I was indecisive, so our server suggested a pint of their award-winning Belgian Blonde Ale called BEES! It was the perfect choice for a sunny afternoon. I also tried two tasters: Entering Tsunami Hazard Zone, a West Coast IPA, and Leaving Tsunami Hazard Zone, a Session White IPA. Both were great but BEES! was the ultimate refresher on that rooftop patio overlooking the inlet and Alberni Harbour.

As we wrapped up and headed downstairs, we stumbled upon an art class in progress where people were learning resin pours. I kicked myself for not doing a little research beforehand because I would have loved to give it a shot. How cool is it that Dog Mountain offers stuff like that? Definitely adding it to my list for next time.

It was now time to head back to the Hospitality Inn after that whirlwind of a day. We packed in more activities than I’d thought possible. From soaring through the skies to splashing in the river, Day 2 was an absolutely epic adventure. My body was officially begging for a rest. Time to kick back, relax, and recharge for another day of exploring on day three. 

We woke up and slowly pulled ourselves out of bed and made our way down to the Alberni Harbour Quay. This morning we were going to cruise around the harbour and check out the Spirit Square Farmer’s Market. But first, as always, coffee. 

We started at Grassroots Cafe, conveniently located right on the Quay. Knowing we had some big meals planned later, we opted for a lighter breakfast and shared a Peach Mango Smoothie and a Strawberry Banana Smoothie between the four of us. To accompany our liquid breakfast, I ordered an Americano while Jen went for a mocha.

With our coffees in hand, we wandered through the bustling Farmer’s Market. There was an abundance of fresh produce, vibrant flowers, and local crafts. If we lived nearby, we would have definitely stocked up on groceries. Instead, we treated the kids to some freeze-dried candy and a unique reusable crocheted water balloon from a couple of local vendors.

To cap off our morning, we cruised around the quay, admiring all the art and carvings and using the public binoculars to search the water around the harbour. Then we climbed up to the clock tower for stunning views of the inlet. The fresh air and breathtaking scenery provided the perfect escape. We lingered at the top, soaking it all in for a while before heading back down.

As we descended the staircase we spotted a sign across the parking lot that read “The Best Donuts on Vancouver Island.” Well, I must say, that’s quite the claim, a claim I felt I needed to be the judge of. The moment we stepped inside The Donut Shop, it felt like we’d time-traveled back to the ’70s. There were retro diner booths, yellow countertops and even a giant Fred Flintstone magazine holder. There was no doubt in my mind that this place could live up to the hype. We decided to go all in and ordered a half dozen for the four of us. The lineup included a Strawberry Lime, a Chocolate Glazed Sprinkle, a Mint Oreo, a Lemon Glaze, and two Chocolate with Peanut Butter Cups (I wasn’t about to risk a donut war with my son). Now, I have to admit, I’m probably not the proper authority to back up the claim of “Vancouver Island’s Best Donut” but I can say The Donut Shop is definitely a strong contender. 

Our next stop was a short stroll up the street to the Alberni Pacific Railway Train Station. We were excited to hop on board a waterfront train pulled by the iconic #11 Diesel Locomotive. Operated by the Western Vancouver Island Industrial Heritage Society, a non-profit dedicated to preserving this piece of history, the train offers scenic rides along the waterfront every weekend.

While not exactly an adrenaline-pumping thrill ride, it was a perfect way to relax and enjoy the scenery. Seeing the smiles on my kids’ faces and the faces of all the other rail fans on board made the whole experience even more special. Plus, the friendly staff shared fascinating stories about the railway’s history and even gave us some tips on where to spot more vintage cars and railway equipment in the city. Unfortunately, we had to save that for another day as we needed to grab lunch and head toward our next experience.

Lunchtime took us to Bare Bones Fish House & Smokery, a popular spot known for its gluten-free fare and delicious smoked meats. Even though we don’t follow a gluten-free diet, it was great to see a local restaurant in Port Alberni dedicated to accommodating those with dietary restrictions.

To start, Jen and I couldn’t resist ordering the Stuffed Yorkshires. It’s a must-try for us whenever it appears on a menu. For our mains, I opted for the Pork Belly Bowl with a flavourful mix of broccoli, peppers, onions, and lemongrass, while Jen went for the Chimichurri Prawns. The food was delicious and gave us the energy boost we needed for our next adventure.

But wait, what’s that in the distance? As we left Bare Bones through the side entrance we noticed a sign with a big finger pointing around the corner? I can’t pass up following a big pointing finger sign! What’s it pointing towards? My curiosity got the best of me. As we walked around the block we saw that the sign was leading us to Mountain View Bakery. Now, I know what you’re thinking, “Didn’t you just have donuts this morning?” Well, when you’re faced with the legendary baked goods of Mountain View, it’s hard to resist.

As soon as we walked in, the aroma of freshly baked Blueberry Fritters filled the air. Perfect timing! I snatched one up to save for later. Meanwhile, the kids couldn’t resist grabbing a couple of eclairs, which they devoured on the spot. With faces full of whip cream and chocolate, we walked back to the car to take a drive just outside of town to the McLean Mill. 

The McLean Mill National Historic Site was a bustling, family-owned logging and lumber operation from 1926 to 1965. It’s incredible that the mill and its surrounding buildings have been so well preserved. Because they kept it in situ, it received designation as a National Historic Site in 1989, making it a popular tourist destination in Port Alberni.

Armed with a map, we embarked on a self-guided tour of the sprawling grounds. We were amazed at how much bigger the site was than we expected. The first thing that caught our eye as we walked out from the forest trail were the old houses where the mill workers and the McLean family once lived. Who knew work from home was trending all the way back in the 1920s? You’re even able to step inside some of the houses and imagine what life would have been like back when the mill was active.

You’ll also find trucks and tractors and trains (oh my) left in their last resting place throughout the grounds. It was pretty neat seeing some of these old vehicles still parked in their original spots collecting dust. I can tell you that my son got a kick out of the manual roll up windows in one of the trucks, instantly making me feel old.

They’ve done a great job not disturbing anything from its original setup while still keeping the look and feel of the old mill. They also have informative signs dotting the property, sharing interesting facts about the mill’s history and the role of each building and machine.

It was a cool experience and the kids loved making us feel old while marveling at the “ancient technology” that was still somewhat relevant when Jen and I were kids. After we finished exploring the entire grounds we took our old, decrepit bodies back to the car. With some extra time to kill before dinner we went back to the Hospitality Inn for a dip in their pool.

After a few cannonballs and water fights we headed back to Old Town to grab a bite to eat. Tonight we’d be dining at the newest of the three breweries in Port Alberni, Alberni Brewing. Established in 2021 by local chef Yvan St. Onge and Heather and Jason Welsh, Alberni Brewing has a spacious interior featuring a cozy fireplace and a welcoming outdoor patio. It’s the perfect spot to relax and enjoy a pint. It’s also a great place to grab some grub. 

Just like the mini yorkies I described above, if I see deep fried pickles on a menu, I’m most likely getting a serving of them. This visit to Alberni Brewing was no exception. We started with an order of “Frickles” and a flight of beer. In our flight we tried the Alter Dunkel, Cold Creek IPA, Blanc Hazy IPA and the Corax stout. The Dunkel was probably my fave but the Hazy IPA was a close second. Jen’s was the Hazy IPA.

For dinner the extensive menu made it tough to choose but I went with the classic Beef Dip while Jen opted for the Coconut Prawns. Both dishes were delicious and what impressed us even further was the kid-friendly menu. Unlike many restaurants with limited options, Alberni Brewing offers a variety of dishes for kids, including several dessert choices. This is a huge win for parents with picky eaters.

The other thing I appreciated was that they were playing the Canada vs. Uruguay COPA America game on their TV. Canada lost, which was a bummer, but it was nice to be able to watch such an exciting match while enjoying a delicious BC craft beer. So if you’re looking for a place to have some great beer, tasty food and watch the game, Alberni Brewing is your spot!

With the kids suffering a food coma from all the sweets and good eats, we decided to head back to the hotel and tuck in early for the night. Well, that is until I noticed Antidote Distilling was right around the corner from Alberni Brewing. Not to put the kids through sitting and watching me drink a cocktail we drove back to the hotel and then I snuck back out for a nightcap.

Antidote has crafted a truly beautiful space. The dimly lit interior, adorned with copper distilling equipment behind the bar and stylish patterned tiles, exudes classic cocktail lounge vibes. Adding a unique twist, a vintage Citroën H Van turned food truck was parked right inside the tasting room. 

Outside is a long, narrow patio along the side of the building. This is where I decided to sit and enjoy a cocktail. Everything on the menu sounded enticing and all the drinks I saw coming out piqued my interest, but ultimately I decided to go with the Mid Island Mojito. This refreshing concoction, featuring spruce tip syrup, Antidote’s signature black gin, and a sprinkle of spruce tip powder, was not only visually stunning but an absolute treat for my tastebuds. It was the perfect complement to the evening’s atmosphere.

Okay, now the night was officially over. I got back to the Hospitality Inn and plugged my car into their complimentary charger then snuck back into the room unnoticed by my snoring children. Time to rest up for another morning adventure and the trip home.

Our first stop brought us to The Broken Bow, a charming little spot near the Alberni Harbour Quay. This gluten-free and vegan-friendly restaurant has a really cute interior with local art adorning the walls. The staff were extremely friendly and the whole place had a relaxed, welcoming vibe.

As I don’t have an intolerance to gluten I never really go for a gluten-free option as my first choice. I’m usually skeptical of gluten-free food, thinking it might compromise taste and texture. The fried chicken and waffles from The Broken Bow completely changed my mind. It was phenomenal! I wished I’d ordered the full portion instead of just a half. Jen loved her Huevos Rancheros served on a crunchy tostada, and the kids enjoyed their classic breakfast sammie and french toast dippers. What kid doesn’t love french toast on a stick?

Feeling energized after breakfast, we traded in one type of forks for another and headed for the hills east of the downtown core. It was finally time to pull our bikes off the bike rack. Alberni Valley has a vast trail system for biking, hiking and walking. Thankfully the Riders of Alberni Valley (ROAV) have compiled a fantastic list of all the local trails, making it easy to find the perfect ride. We opted for something short and mellow and went with Ship Creek Trail to Fir Baby Loop, which is just under 5 km. 

Jen and our daughter enjoyed a leisurely forest walk while I tackled the trails with my son. Let’s just say the uphill climb was a bit more challenging than anticipated. I guess it’s time to hit the stairmaster for some stamina training. The mellow downhill loop around Fir Baby Trail was a blast, and the trails were surprisingly quiet, especially considering it was a sunny Sunday morning.

We rolled back into the parking lot after about an hour and a half of riding and strapped our bikes back on the car to head out for lunch. Our final stop was the Wildflower Cafe, a few blocks away from where we ate breakfast earlier that morning.

Wildflower may have been one of the most visually appealing restaurants we ate at on the entire trip. The stunning interior was full of lush greenery, vibrant colours and plenty of natural light creating a beautiful atmosphere. The covered patio looped around a giant open garden full of plants and flowers. It was a spectacular spot to spend an afternoon for lunch. 

Because we ate breakfast late we decided to indulge in some of Wildflower’s baked goods for lunch. We tried a bit of everything and ordered the Summer-Berry Cream Cheese Cruffin, a Cinnamon Bun, a Raspberry-Blueberry Scone sprinkled with powdered sugar, and the Triple Chocolate Brioche. All four of us shared and it was almost impossible to pick a favourite, but I will say the cruffin and the brioche were standouts for me. I could tell that the kids loved the brioche by the way they hovered over me to try and scoop up the chocolate filling. Vultures!

As we were finishing up we saw some of the lunch options coming out of the Wildflower kitchen. OMG! The Fried Chicken Sandwich and the Brisket Biscuit had me drooling and almost considering a second lunch. A trip back to Wildflower is definitely in order soon.

We did have one more necessary stop that wasn’t on our itinerary before we bid farewell to Port Alberni though: Coombs Country Candy! How could we pass up getting some goodies for the road? With our car full of Peanut Brittle and Caramel Corn I pulled up the map to plan our route home. 

And with that, we say our goodbyes to Port Alberni. 

With bellies full of delicious food, bodies tired from exploring and minds filled with unforgettable memories, we hit the road headed for home. Port Alberni, often overlooked and underappreciated, truly surprised us and exceeded all expectations. From gliding with the eagles to splashing in the river, this charming inlet town has something to offer everyone. I’d also wager to say Port Alberni has some of the best brewery-based food options in BC! It’s time to break free from the coastal tunnel vision and explore the heart of Vancouver Island. Trust me, you won’t regret it.