Rivers, Brews and
Mountain Views:

I was about to embark on a whirlwind tour of a portion of the Kootenay Rockies West Ale Trail while my partner stayed at home with our two children to finish up their first week of school. I do love traveling with my family but traveling solo forces me to get out of my comfort zone, meet new people and make great memories. It is safe to say, my favourite place to be is outside my comfort zone. As I headed north, my guilt began to dissipate and the anticipation of the unknown set in.  I hadn’t driven across the border since I was 18 years old (that was 30 years ago) and I felt giddy as the border neared. My GPS announced that it had found a route that would shorten my drive time by three minutes! Truth be told, this new route had me completely unaware of my location, but I didn’t care. In less than three hours I would be at my first stop with a cold brew in my hand and that was all that mattered. As I crossed the border at Waneta, my GPS announced “Welcome to Canada” and a smile spread over my face.

I followed the commanding Columbia River into Trail, BC, and found a parking spot rather quickly. Trail Beer Refinery was recently purchased by the folks at Tailout Brewing and their brewer, Brad, has been around for about three months. I made my way up to the bar and chatted with the waitress about her favourite dishes and beers. I settled on a Pina Colada Sour on nitro from Tailout Brewing and a plate of Thai chili lime wings.

Editor’s note: in 2025, Tailout Brewing closed their Castlegar location and moved into the Trail brewery space, closing the Trail Beer Refinery. 

They were a match made in heaven! I am pretty sure I heard angelic music when she set them in front of me. The beer was not overly sour with a good balance of fruit and acidity. The coconut was creamy and rounded out the pineapple flavour nicely. The wings had a subtle Thai heat with undertones of lime and although they are not considered a dry rub, the sauce is light enough it could be. I am a sucker for a dry rub on wings so I hesitated when the waitress said they were sauced but I am glad I listened to her recommendations. Trail Beer Refinery presently has two flagship beers, the 1901 Italian Pilsner and the Hazy Pale Ale. The Italian Pilsner is made in the style of the German pilsner but is dry-hopped for maximum aroma. This beer is clean, crisp, with the right amount of hops and yeast giving it a herbal grassy aroma. The Hazy was also delicious and everything you want in a hazy. Fruit forward with notes of apricot, smooth body and mouthfeel making it easy to drink. The brewery has an industrial look with pipes for tap handles and an open floor plan so patrons can have an immersive experience of the brewery. The brew equipment and brewer are literally in the same room! Brad sheepishly admitted it’s tough to brew when people are in the restaurant because they naturally want to ask questions, and brewing can be a tad time-sensitive.

After my belly was full, I continued on to Castlegar, which would be my home base for a few days. I stopped at The Confluence, and the new digs for the Visitor Center and Chamber of Commerce. It is a great place to get some ideas of what to do in the area and ask questions.

The building is still being worked on but fits in naturally with the backdrop of the rock cliffs and river. The building itself reflects the surrounding mountain peaks and serves as a great place to get information, charge your phone, or catch up on some work (if you must). I chatted with Ashley about things to do in the area, grabbed a map and headed to check in at the Lakeside Castlegar Cabins.

Crossing over the Columbia River, I headed toward Robson where the cabins are located. It took a moment to find them because my GPS took me past the location. The cabins sit on a part of the river referred to as Lower Arrow Lake, made by the Keenleyside dam. I love staying in unique places like a yurt or a treehouse so an “off-grid cabin” was just the ticket. I don’t know if everyone has wondered about this, but I have always wondered what it would be like to live off-grid and if I could handle it. The Lakeside cabins are a good way to test this curiosity. Kelsey and Carl have built three solar-powered mini cabins, a solar-powered shower and two outhouse bathrooms. They plan to build at least three more and add to the beauty of their property by painting the cabins in vibrant colours to mimic a “resort town” of sorts. They also plan on adding gravel and plants such as lavender and other bee and environmentally friendly plants. 

The view from my cabin was stunning! The water was gorgeous with aqua blue and emerald green hues surrounded by forest and rocky outcroppings.

There is lake access on the property to your own sandy beach and swimming area. Kelsey told me there were some old train tunnels across the way that you could kayak or Stand Up Paddle (SUP) through when the water is low enough- something I really wanted to do but would have to plan that on my next trip through. Why isn’t there more time in the day?

After I settled in and got the lay of the land, I headed out to meet a new friend I was introduced to when I mentioned I was headed to BC. I met with Andrea, owner of Endless Adventure, at the boat launch across from Lions Head Smoke & Brew Pub to SUP on the river. It was after 5 pm so the sun was still pretty hot, and the water was refreshing. Andrea went over some quick rules of safety and how to paddle efficiently (super helpful on a windy day) then we were off. 

It is amazing how different a landscape can look from the water. Castlegar or Robson, depending on which riverbank you’re looking at, are breathtaking. The rock structure behind the pub resembles a huge lion’s head – hence the name. We paddled upriver towards the Keenleyside dam taking in the experience and getting to know each other. When we turned around, we barely needed to paddle since the breeze and the water were working in our favour. When we arrived back at our cars, we made plans to meet up again the next day and paddle from the same spot down to Millennium Park in Castlegar which would take us through some whitewater…. Remember when I said my favourite place was outside my comfort zone? Well, this would be a true testament to that statement. 

I was famished, so I headed to dinner at a restaurant called MapleMirch.

A large glowing sign reading “Thirsty Duck” beckoned my attention to a pub-looking restaurant at my intended location. The sign above the restaurant read MapleMirch so I knew I was at the right place but what was the Thirsty Duck? Turns out it was the pub at this location before MapleMirch and upon entering the restaurant I could see remnants of the old pub that reminded me of the bar on the show Cheers. You know, “where everybody knows your name.” That all said, it was an extremely inviting place and the staff were quick to welcome me in. The restaurant is a little quirky and definitely unique. You still get the feel of the old pub but MapleMirch has breathed a new exciting life into the place mixing the old with the new, similar to the chef’s outlook of blending cultures and flavours through his food.

James Varghese, the chef and owner, spent much of his culinary journey on cruise ships and claims to want to make food that melts hearts. James took some time to introduce himself and ask if I had any questions about the menu to which I replied, “Just tell me what I shouldn’t miss!” I make a point of asking staff, especially the chef, to choose whatever dish they think I should try because I am a big believer that they know best. James chose the beef mappas for me and a cocktail called the Buddha’s Lotus which had Empress gin, lychee, lime, mint and tonic water. 

To say it was all fantastic does not do it justice. First, the cocktail. The rim was coated with a subtly sweet sugar of some sort and crushed fennel seeds. Krishna, the lovely gal working, would not give me the full details of the secret coated rim but I can tell you, you don’t want a straw for this drink. None of the deliciously coated rim should go to waste and it adds to the cocktail in an amazing way. Delicious, refreshing and complex, it did not disappoint. The salad was simple and super fresh with mini pickled pearl onions, thinly sliced dried apricots, paneer and a mango dressing to die for. The beef short ribs were braised to perfection and doused in a perfectly spicy curried gravy alongside the mashed potatoes kissed with turmeric. I had to remind myself to put my fork down every once in a while, it was that good.

In addition to amazing food, Kirshna and James made me feel like I was the only person in the place. They genuinely want to make sure your experience is top-notch. I can’t recommend MapleMirch enough.

With a super full and happy tummy, I headed back to my cabin for a much-needed rest.

I quickly made my coffee (there is a press pot in the cabin) and headed outside to watch the sun come up over the mountains and light up the river. Can I just say: watching the world wake up is really a sight to see. 

After the morning show, I headed into town to grab some fuel for the busy day ahead. Common Grounds Coffee House is a locally owned café with many beverage options, breakfast, lunch and treats. When I arrived, a group of gentlemen were sitting outside under the pergola, and I could tell this was their hangout. Once I walked inside, I could see why. 

The café is cozy and inviting with lots of wood décor and plants throughout. I opted for a cappuccino and an avocado toast called Load it Up that had smashed avocado, feta, tomato, and a coriander red onion salsa on toasted multi-grain bread. I thoroughly enjoyed both, but I would be lying if I didn’t say I wasn’t tempted by the sweet offerings in the food case at the counter. Shockingly, I stayed strong and headed out to view the sculpture walk I had heard so much about.

Castlegar Sculpturewalk is in its 14th year and a big reason why Castlegar is known as the Sculpture Capital of Canada. All the sculptures along the walk are available for sale or lease, and viewers are encouraged to vote for their favourite. The winning piece is purchased by the City of Castlegar for their permanent collection. I parked my car across from the city hall on Columbia Ave thinking that was a good spot to start and make a sort of loop to make sure I saw everything. In addition to the pieces for the Sculpturewalk, viewers can also see many past people’s choice winners and other pieces throughout the town. It was a wonderful experience to walk through a new town and see so many pieces of art. Not only were there multiple sculptures, I also saw many murals. 

I am a big fan of public art and I spent a good part of my day seeking them all out. It was hard to pick a favourite, but I think for me it was A Voice for Nature created from an old-growth red cedar which can be seen in the courtyard of city hall. 

While I was walking about town, I came across a darling little shop called Moonrise Boutique, so I went in for a quick peek. The shop showcases a collection of vintage and handmade items from clothing and jewelry to heavenly scented candles. Sarah, the gal working, didn’t look at me weirdly at all while I smelled my way through the whole candle line, and told me bits and pieces about the local items she was excited about.

I purchased the perfect necklace hand-crafted by Sick Chick out of Revelstoke for my mountain biking-crazed friend and decided all that art made me hungry (go figure) so I headed to Mad Press Coffee.

Mad Press Coffee is more than a coffee shop. They also offer soups, paninis, wraps, nourish bowls, and smoothies. It is located in a strip mall of sorts and looks very unassuming from the outside, but the inside is decorated with tons of art, mostly beautiful nature scenes and wildlife. 

The décor is modern and hip with classy tiles and stylish furniture. I was planning a hike after lunch, so I ordered the chicken gyro nourish bowl with brown rice, chicken, pickled onions, cherry tomatoes, cucumber, olives, feta, spinach, and tzatziki dressing.  Fresh, filling and delicious without weighing me down – I was ready to hike.

Just to the east of Castlegar, I planned on hiking the Mel DeAnna Trail. I was told this was a pretty easy hike and mostly in the shade, which was perfect because I had spent so much time looking at the sculptures that I was hitting the trail at the hottest part of the day. When I parked, I took a moment to take in the view from the parking lot which overlooks the city and the river.  The beginning of the trail does start in the sun which had me worried about the heat but about seven minutes into the hike, my worries disappeared. The trail twisted through the forest and over steps made of stone.

Within the first few minutes of entering the woods, the area came to life with birds, chipmunks and a gentle breeze. Along the trail, I came across several interpretive signs with information about things you might come across like different types of plants, mushrooms and wildlife adding to the experience and my knowledge of the area. On the hike, I also came across two A-frame shelters perfect for a break or snack, a mine shaft, and areas in which the woods became so dense it seemed like someone was turning out the lights. The trail loops around the Champion Ponds where I was excited to see more bird action. Apparently, bird-watching has become part of my makeup and I am not embarrassed to admit it. The hike took me about an hour and a half, so I had time for a quick shower before meeting Andrea again for an evening paddle.

I had yet to try the solar-powered shower at the cabins, but I was super excited to do so. The shower structure is made from cedar and reminds me a lot of a sauna. It was very easy to use, just turn the timer to the amount you would like and push a button. Within seconds, hot, clean water was coming out the shower head and I felt like I could have been in a high-end spa shower. Now that I was cleaned up, back to the launch at Lions Head I went.

This paddle would be much shorter and much more exciting than our previous paddle. Andrea explained the difference in paddling through whitewater and faster-moving currents so I would know what to expect. Off we went and I was thrilled, and a little nervous about what lay ahead. For the most part, it was what I usually expect when paddling but the water was definitely moving faster. I absolutely loved it. As we came to our takeout point at Millenium Park, I saw the last and most difficult rapid to navigate on this trip. I LOVE whitewater rafting, so I am familiar with looking for the “tongue” or the targeted path through whitewater and as I watched Andrea ride the waves through to the end, I attempted to follow suit. It was exhilarating. Controlling your board through a rapid is difficult but I managed to get through the majority of it before the rapid spit me out the side.

After we took our boards out of the water, we ended the paddle the way it should be done… with a beer overlooking the river. We enjoyed the Single Spey IPA and Sundown Blood Orange Hazy IPA from Tailout Brewing.

The Single Spey IPA pulls off a balance between the bitterness of the hops and citrus notes instead of the smack upside the head of hops only that I taste in a lot of IPAs. The hazy is bold, with the hops in the forefront rounded out by the fruit notes. Both were great to have on a hot day and I looked forward to checking out more from Tailout Brewing later in my trip.

Once again it was time for dinner (yes, my life revolves around food) and we set off for Tacos El Gringos. I was super excited to try this place after the conversation I had with Sarah next door at the Moonrise Boutique. She couldn’t say enough about the food and I happen to be Mexican at heart. After I ordered a margarita, I asked Richard, one of the owners, to pick whatever he thought I should try for dinner. With a raised eyebrow he asked me a couple of questions then disappeared into the restaurant. The patio was hopping, and the view of the surrounding area was great. From my seat I could see the railroad and behind it the vastness of the mountain range. 

Richard returned with a platter of four street tacos; chicken chipotle, chorizo, shrimp, and fish, with rice and beans. They all had a kick of spice but something to counterbalance the heat. And if that wasn’t enough, enter my margarita. We had a wonderful time, but I had to cut my night short and get back to my digs for bed because the morning brought the Invasive Species Fishout Derby.

Truth be told, I hadn’t gone fishing since I was a kid but I had always enjoyed it. Luckily, I had stopped off at Crumbs Bakery Café yesterday to grab some breakfast for this morning because nothing is open at this hour.

Crumbs had a million things I wanted to try but I ordered a cinnamon & sugar croissant that kept well and was perfect with my morning coffee. As I drove to meet up with my guide for the derby, I watched the sun start to rise again. The sunrises in this area are truly brilliant. 

Lon, my guide from All in Fishing Adventures, was ready to go when I arrived. He welcomed me onto the boat and got me set up for the quick ride down the Columbia to the Kootenay River for the morning fishery. I knew I was going to like Lon the moment I caught sight of his cat-decorated sandals. Lon took no time in getting our lines in the water and explaining to me what we were looking for and why he chose this particular spot on the river. We dropped the anchor on the Kootenay River, right near the confluence. Lon has me feel the temperature of the water, which is quite warm in comparison to the Columbia. This shallow and warmer water is where the walleye can be found in the early morning because it is where they come to feed. 

Within minutes we were reeling in a fish! As I reeled in the fish, Lon waited with the net. As the fish came closer to the boat, all I could see was his huge open mouth! This was the first walleye I had ever seen and a beautiful fish at that. Their skin is golden and one of their fins is spiny so you have to be careful when you handle them. Lon was full of information and stories that made the experience even better. My second walleye was a pretty big one, 22 inches, and landed me on the leaderboard for overall longest walleye in second place. 

WOW!!! How cool is that?! Although I knew I wouldn’t remain in a top spot, I was still pretty excited. By noon, I had caught a total of 10 fish and a fever for fishing. I was a little sad as we headed back to my car, but I was sure I would return for more, perhaps in the winter for some ice fishing. Lon and I said our goodbyes and I was off to grab some lunch across the way at the Lions Head Smoke & Brew Pub.

I love the look of this place from the moment I see it.

Lions Head Smoke & Brew Pub sits at the base of the granite rock formation for which it was named. It resembles an old lodge and beckons you to come inside. Once inside, it is a sight to behold.

Huge chandeliers made from saw blades hang from the ceilings and the rafters are lined with beer steins. Tons of colourful pieces and quirky items like singing fish adorn the walls. A fireplace along the wall makes the room extra cozy for those wishing to sit indoors or you can opt for outdoor seating on one of their two patios. I had heard that Castlegar was an outdoor enthusiast’s dream, but home to a rock climbing pub…I must be in heaven. In addition to the rock climbing, the pub is known for its in-house smoked meats and dishes made from scratch along with their rotating selections of BC craft beer. 

I was famished and I wanted it all, but you know the drill. I asked Maddi to pick out a dish that I couldn’t leave the pub without trying and a flight of beers to go with it. Her selection was spot on! She brought me the brisket dip on a toasted bun with Swiss cheese, thick bacon, garlic aioli and au jus. The dip was amazing and the bacon took it to the next level without being overdone. On the side, she chose both fries and the Caesar salad topped with capers which brought that little extra pop of flavor.

Now the beer.

Tin Whistle’s Morning Glory Pink Guava Ale: tart, crisp, golden yellow deliciousness.

Mt. Begbie’s High Country Kolsch: pure, dry, and refreshing.

SOMA’s Blackberry cider: drier style and not overly sweet, easy to drink.

Neighborhood Brewing’s Peach City Sour Wheat Ale: juicy, peachy, tastes like a bit of lactose for creaminess, nice full-body beer.

BNA Brewing Co.’s Blue Rain (Blueberry sour): light, the perfect amount of sour and tart, and of course blueberry goodness.

Cannery Brewing’s Plum and Basil Blonde: really unique beer. The basil is aromatic and the plum brings a subtle tartness that is really refreshing.

So I have to say…. BC MAKES AMAZING BEER!!! I really could hang out here all day but I had checked out of the cabins and needed to check in to the SureStay Best Western so I could be closer to Tailout Brewing’s Summer Send Off tonight.

After I checked in, I quickly took a shower and a quick cat nap before the show. That is what us bird watching, rise before sunrise folk do.

I arrived at Tailout Brewing right before the place got too packed and bellied up to the bar. I got myself a flight of their beers and settled in to see what they are all about. While I was tasting through, I was approached by an older gentleman that I understand to be there daily. George was full of information about the brewery, Castlegar, and so much history about the area I felt I hit the jackpot!

We spent the next hour or so chatting about life, beer, and just about anything you can hope to achieve in a great conversation. George was a highlight during my time at Tailout Brewing and I hope that if you visit this brewery, you get the pleasure of his company. Just look for the handsome well-dressed man in the cowboy hat.

The Tailout beers on my flight included the Kolsch, Sundown Blood Orange Hazy IPA, Womens Day Wheat Ale aka “G-sass”, Pina Colada Nitro, and Where’s the Paddle Porter. The Pina Colada Nitro was still amazing! The G-sass is exactly how they describe it: sass, class and lemongrass.

When the band started, George took his leave and the fans surrounded the band to rock out. I was a bit of a punkhead when I was a teen and hadn’t been to a show in a while, so I was really looking forward to it. 

My evening at Tailout Brewing was full of great beer, a great show and infectious energy. I was sad to see it come to an end.

Editor’s Note: In late 2024, Tailout Brewing’s Castlegar location was permanently closed. In early 2025, the brewery moved to Trail, taking over the space formerly occupied by the Trail Beer Refinery. Tailout’s beers are still available in Castlegar at local liquor stores and on tap at various restaurants and pubs. 

The menu has everything you hope to have at a great breakfast spot including all the sweet and savoury favourites. I ordered a single Belgian waffle, a slice of bacon AND sausage, and eggs. It was delicious and filling, the perfect breakfast before heading to Salmo to check out one more BC brewery on the Kootenay Rockies West Ale Trail: Erie Creek Brewing

The drive to Salmo was gorgeous and I could see how so many cyclists and bikers come here to visit.

Erie Creek Brewing is located in an old bank and some of its remnants peek out of the brewery. They even converted a safe into a cozy little sitting area to enjoy their brews.

I met the owner and brewer, Colin, when I arrived, and he told me about the quality water in the area that makes his beer really stand out from others. Apparently there is an aquifer, actually three, under Salmo and Colin credits the great water to his beer having a drier, cleaner finish. I ordered a flight of all the beers on tap and some wings with two locally-made Counter Cultured Hot Sauces: the Scarlet Fire and the Hop Sauce made especially for the brewery. I am kind of a wing-crazed woman if you haven’t guessed. 

My flight included the Kolsch: clean, herbal, amazing; Golden Ale: balanced and easy drinking; Summer Ale: aromas of tropical fruit, a deep golden colour, juicy, the perfect summer beer; Out Cold Cream: easy drinking and smooth; Erie Mist IPA: balanced, hopp, and smooth; and the Stout: roasted coffee, dry and robust. 

As I sipped on the beers, I watched as the brewery came alive with patrons. The brewery is family friendly, has live music and a cool fireplace made with rocks from the Salmo River. This is definitely a place locals are lucky to have, and where visitors should make sure to stop. I bought some beers to take away and started my drive home.

Border patrol asked my business in BC at the gate, and when I answered to drink great beer the agent laughed and said “Yeah, it’s a great place for that.”

My drive home was only a couple of hours which had me thinking I really need to do this more often. British Columbia is quickly becoming one of my favourite places and being so close, there is no reason I can’t explore more of it, more often.

Just a hop, skip and a jump away.