The Gateway to Adventure
and Brews with a View

I could see various individuals hard at work setting up for a fall festival by carving a corn maze and harvesting pumpkins, but I couldn’t spy a single water source. 

I had passed plenty of lakes and rivers on my eight-hour drive from my home in the West Kootenay region of BC and had followed the shoreline of Howe Sound from Vancouver to Squamish, but I was now most definitely surrounded by terra firma. Or so I thought. After parking my car near the company’s outdoor facility, where there are covered spaces, a firepit, and change rooms, I met trip leader Miguel and he informed me the large property backed onto the Squamish River. We wouldn’t be rafting that river, he said, but it was only a short drive to our put-in on the nearby Cheakamus River. He then introduced me to Sophie, who would be our fabulous river queen guide for the half-day adventure. 

At 9 a.m. we loaded onto a small bus, and Miguel was right about the proximity because we were on the water within a half hour. Sophie began the journey by showing me and the four other novice crew members how to paddle a raft: “Forward on the left! Backwards on the right,” she shouted. The training came in handy when navigating river holes and fallen trees during the three-hour tour but as this was late season, there weren’t a lot of obstacles or rapids. Spring freshet* tends to be when the waters around Squamish get more exciting, although Sophie did say the nearby Elaho River, which Canadian Outback also guides on, has larger water features year-round. We were happy with our mellower float, though, as it allowed us to enjoy the beautiful mountainous scenery in the distance and the forested shoreline where we’d occasionally spy funky, tiny homes and clawfoot tubs tucked in the trees, and fishermen casting lines for salmon. 

*Freshet is generally known as the time of year when water levels are high in the spring due to snow melt and run-off.  

After the three-hour rafting trip on the Cheakamus, I met up with my friend Jane to visit A-FRAME Brewing for post-float pints. The family-friendly tasting room located in its namesake structure has a cozy indoor sitting area and an outdoor patio with firepits. It may be small, but the taproom boasts lots of soul and some excellent brews, many of which are named for waterways. We tried the Okanagan Lake Cream Ale, which had a lean, crisp taste and a lighter finish; the Ruby Lake Raspberry Wheat Ale, which had a tart aftertaste; as well as the Adams Lake New England Pale Ale, a light, juicy hazy that I found very refreshing. My other favourite was the Ireland Lake Nitro Stout with its full-body and roasted aroma that’s perfectly balanced with its soft, rich flavour.

Although A-FRAME doesn’t serve food, the Flipside Burgers food truck is parked on-site every day and serves a dozen different sandwiches. I ordered the pineapple chicken habanero on a bun and it was deliciously tropical with just a hint of fiery spice.

I spent the afternoon touring the town of Squamish, which is situated on the shores of Howe Sound and at the foot of the Coast Mountains, equidistant between Vancouver and Whistler. The area used to be the enclave of loggers and miners, but a large influx of urbanites in the past two decades has definitely levelled up the culinary scene and Squamish now boasts dozens of restaurants, cafes, and brew pubs. Jane and I decided to check out one of the more popular ones on my first night. Backcountry Brewing has become a community hub in Squamish for locals and visitors alike. It’s known for its creative sours and pop-culture beer names, such as Don’t Call Me Shirley and Heidily-Ho, Neighbourino, and it also has a full kitchen that serves excellent pizza.

The high ceilings and wrap-around bar lend themselves to a bustling atmosphere where we found the staff extremely friendly and stylish (or is that just everyone in Squamish?). I dove into the fungi pizza, which was drizzled with beautifully sublime truffle oil, and paired it with a Ridgerunner Pilsner, a light, easy-drinking brew with a crisp aftertaste. For dessert, I tried the Might As Well Go For A Soda cherry cola gummy sour, which really did taste like a cola gummy candy: fun, sweet, and a little tangy. Then I had the Sour Candy Shop brew which tasted like fuzzy peach. It was yummy and made me nostalgic for my youth. I capped off the meal with a Mr Toad’s Mild Ride English mild. It was rich and dark, with a caramel finish. Delicious. 

We decided to end the evening at Geo Cider, located beside Backcountry Brewing. It felt like we walked into a tropical paradise complete with hanging plants, bright colours, and a funky, warm, Bohemian-themed interior. Server Jesse greeted us with a smile and while we were too full to partake in their menu of specialty tacos, we did order some tasters of cider including pear, margarita, blood orange, and full berry. The margarita was my favourite: tart, not too sweet and easy to drink.

After a full day, I headed back to my hotel, the Howe Sound Inn, to rest up for the next day’s adventures. The Inn is in a great location, with rooms above the Howe Sound Brewery and Brewpub. The staff was friendly and welcoming, and the room was cozy. The perfect home base to explore Squamish for a few days.

Located near the public dock on the Mamquam Blind Channel, a narrow offshoot at the tip of Howe Sound, Squamish Watersports offers equipment rentals and guided excursions on the surrounding waterways. Marcel was my guide for the four-hour loop trip, which had us exploring the estuary and Squamish River in sea kayaks. He said he’d been working for the company for the past three years and while they specialize in wind sports and boat trips up the channel, his passion for kayaking encouraged the owners to expand their offerings to include sea kayak tours of the river.

Paddling a sea kayak up the easy-flowing freshwater river was a unique experience, but it was Marcel’s knowledge of the local culture and Indigenous heritage that proved to be the highlight of the trip. He spoke about the huge granite rock face we could see called Stawamus Chief Mountain, or simply the Chief to locals, that towers 700 metres or 2,297 feet above the town. It’s one of the largest granite monoliths in the world. The local Indigenous nation, for which Squamish is named, believes the Chief to be a place of spiritual significance: once a longhouse transformed to stone. According to their legend, the giant cleft in the mountain’s cliff face is a mark of corrosion left by the skin of a giant two-headed sea serpent. 

The fresh air, exercise, beautiful views, and incredible tales left us hungry. After the tour, Marcel, fellow paddler Christine (Nanou), and I made our way to Cliffside Cider, a little hidden gem in a back alley that’s a favourite among locals. It’s a hub for games, conversation, and small-batch craft blends and cocktails. I noticed young families playing corn hole and Nerf darts, and dog lovers popping in for a mid-walk bevy. When we sat down, owners Boyd Folkard and Rob Weys came by and introduced themselves. It made the whole experience that much more personal and charming. 

They told us they have seasonal food trucks on site throughout the year. The current one was Rumble Fish, which served extraordinary fish tacos with homemade spicy mayo, and hot dogs absolutely loaded with toppings. Once again, we had gone for a tasting of their cider offerings but it was their craft margarita that stole my heart and my taste buds.

I enjoyed another afternoon stroll around town before visiting Raincity Distillery with Nanou, a small-batch craft distillery with a quaint, artistic vibe. We enjoyed the stunning wildlife photography on display when we first walked in before hunkering down and asking our attentive host Susan what we should try. She suggested their gin line, and so we imbibed: my favourite was the Loving Dusk Raspberry Gin. We also tried the Black Tusk Smoked Vodka, which tasted like liquid bacon. It was perfect in a caesar! Then we moved to their food menu and enjoyed the most mouthwatering dumplings: pork, shiitake mushroom, and beef, all with specialty sauces that included peanut, pickled carrots, and chilli oils. 

It is one of the most popular paddling spots around Squamish because it’s convenient, calm, and located in a beautiful forest. There are also paddle sport rentals in the summer months, as well as washroom facilities, picnic tables, and a beach. I brought my own paddleboard to explore with and had most of the lake to myself. A low-hanging mist clung to the surface and the serene scene was just what I needed to calm my mind and relax. I could see snowy peaks in the distance, and waterfowl were bathing and feeding on underwater plants nearby.

After the beautiful morning paddle, I stopped at Fergies Café, which I can only describe as a treehouse paradise. Although not built in a tree, it’s surrounded by them and the small, indoor part of the restaurant hovers above the canopy. There are multiple floors and unique dining spaces, and most of them are open to the outdoors. There’s also a large, open, green seating area, a playground, and a beach that backs onto the Cheakamus River. The whole scene was super cute, the service was top-notch, and they served me one of the best coffees I’ve ever had in my life!

In the afternoon I returned to Howe Sound Brewing and finally visited their brewpub. Howe Sound pioneered Squamish’s craft beer scene in 1996 and it’s still going strong. The restaurant is large but has a classic community pub feel with high ceilings, wooden beams, and rafters that were still adorned with Octoberfest flags. It often hosts live music although the scene was quiet the afternoon I visited. 

My server Genevieve brought me the special, which was bratwurst with coleslaw and a house-made pretzel, paired with the Hybrid hazy pale ale. I enjoyed that before moving outside to their huge patio and ordering a flight that included the Garibaldi, an easy-drinking, lightly-sweetened pale ale that incorporates honey from the nearby Fraser Valley. I also tried the Sky Pilot hazy pale ale which had a nice, hoppy aroma and a smooth aftertaste; and the Jam Session, a seasonal, light cream ale crafted with raspberries. For dessert, I went with the Utopia Peach Cobbler Sour, another seasonal offering that leans toward the sweeter side, with a cinnamon-dessert finish.

As I sat in the sunshine admiring the views of The Chief and reflecting on my recent paddle adventures, as well as the delicious brews and food I’d enjoyed, I thought it was only appropriate that I was finishing the trip with a drink named Utopia. After all, Squamish is a paradise for paddlers and pub-goers alike.