Vancouver’s North Shore: Seeing
the Forest Among the Skyscrapers

My mom grew up in West Vancouver, and I spent much of my childhood travelling from the Greater Toronto Area to the Vancouver coast. Some of my earliest memories are from the Quay Market and Food Hall (also known as Lonsdale Quay), a bustling waterfront market filled with locally made food and artisan goods. I hadn’t visited since 2012, and was struck by its transformation. What was once an industrial shipyard has been reborn as a vibrant community hub, brimming with dining, arts, and a lively public pier that reflects both the city’s history and its energy.

My adventure buddy Jen has been paddling the province with me since 2006. We’re both mountain folk from the Kootenay Rockies; ladies who crave wild escapes and share a love for quality dining experiences and the stories of the passionate people behind them.

We took Highway 3, the “Winding Route of Adventure,” an 8.5-hour drive through breathtaking mountain passes, small towns, and semi-arid desert landscapes before arriving at the coast.

I had stayed at the Pinnacle Hotel in downtown Vancouver earlier this year, and this North Vancouver location, Pinnacle Hotel at the Pier, exceeded expectations. The bright, open lobby was a welcoming space for travellers to gather. The hospitality was genuine and warm, a tone that carried throughout my stay.

We opted for breakfast at the Pinnacle’s The Lobby Restaurant. A simple but satisfying start: a cappuccino with a brioche breakfast sandwich layered with pork sausage, fried egg, aged cheddar, and a roasted garlic chipotle aioli. A delicious way to fuel up for a morning of paddling.

At Cates Park, also known by its ancestral name of Whey-ah-Wichen, meaning “faces the wind”, I joined Takaya Tours for an Indigenous canoeing experience on the traditional waters of the Tsleil-Waututh Nation. In a 45-foot ocean-going canoe, guided by James and Seth, we paddled Burrard Inlet while listening to Coast Salish songs and stories. Seth’s voice carried ancestral histories that resonated deeply, creating goosebumps as we moved in rhythm together. More than a tour, it was a reminder of the canoe as both a vessel and a storyteller, a link between people, place, and history.

We gathered at Wildeye Brewing for a post-paddle lunch. Wildeye is a spacious industrial-style brewery with darts, shuffleboard, and a welcoming patio perfect for dogs and summer sunshine. Their tasting flights tell stories through flavour. I went with:

• Neon Nectar IPA – crisp, hoppy, and well-balanced.
• Spicy Margarita Sour – rimmed with tajín, it offered a playful punch of lime and spice.
• Pineapple Radler – bright, tropical, and refreshing.
• Mango Sticky Rice IPA – a surprising twist: classic hops with a lingering smooth mango note.

Alongside the beer, I savoured pulled-pork tostadas topped with slaw and house-made pilsner BBQ sauce. Wildeye has a knack for making beer an experience — each pour is layered with creativity.

After a quiet afternoon, we headed out for dinner. Steps from the hotel, Provisions Italiana at the Seaside Hotel delivers casual chic with exceptional hospitality. Known for its charcuterie, we indulged in artisan cheeses (including Truffle Manchego) alongside duck prosciutto and bison herb. The highlight was the seafood platter — oysters, lobster rolls, ceviche, prawns, tartare, and mussels, each dish beautifully plated and prepared with intention.

Later, we strolled the pier at Lower Lonsdale, its lights reflecting the shipyard’s storied past. Once a cornerstone of shipbuilding during WWII, the area is now one of North Vancouver’s fastest-growing neighbourhoods, proof of how history can be transformed into community.

Retro décor and a warm vibe made Jam Cafe a cheerful start to our second day. Jen ordered the famous Blackstone Benny with sugar-cured bacon — a house specialty that’s worth the hype. Next, we headed off to Grouse Mountain. 

I hadn’t been to Grouse Mountain since childhood, and experiencing it without snow was transformative. We rode the new Blue Grouse Gondola, opened December 2024, with sweeping views of the city and mountains. At the top, we took in totems and the Grizzly Bear Sanctuary, home to Grinder and Coola, who roamed peacefully in their forest enclosure.

The Eco Walk offered insights into Indigenous plant knowledge, such as the Coast Salish use of yellow cedar for paddles, masks, and tools. Grouse proved itself a true four-season destination,  from skiing and snowshoeing in winter to hiking, wildlife viewing, and cultural experiences in summer.

Editor’s note: Please check Today on Grouse before your visit for current open activities and conditions.

New to the world of e-bikes, I was excited for our next adventure of cycling the North Shore Spirit Trail. This scenic route blends ocean views with cultural experiences. Jen and I met Tony and Bosco at Reckless Shipyards, conveniently located just steps from the Pinnacle Hotel, to pick up our rental e-bikes. 

Bosco provided a quick orientation on the bike features and safety reminders before we set off. The Spirit Trail offered a perfect mix of natural beauty and cultural storytelling, featuring incredible Indigenous artwork along the route. The trail wound gently between the ocean and forest, with smooth, well-maintained paths that made for an effortless and nostalgic ride. The kind where you can’t help but smile with the wind in your hair.

We biked the Spirit Trail to Beva Brewing & Blending, where we were greeted by owner Morgan, who exudes enthusiasm for her craft. Paired with nostalgic onion dip and spiced sour cream with fresh bread, the taster flight I chose was a delight:

• Brico Stout – smooth chocolate and coffee notes.
• Mutzadel Hazy IPA – crisp and lightly spiced.
• Beva Lager – classic, light, and refreshing.
• Juciful Hazy IPA – juicy citrus and tropical hops.

From there, once we had returned our e-bikes, we set out to experience more of the craft beer that the area is known for. We sampled at Strathcona North, where the Raspberry Wit and Beach Peach Radler were standouts: bright, fruity, and perfect for summer.

We chose nearby Fishworks for dinner. Known for sustainable seafood and a stellar BC wine list, Fishworks delivered a feast. We shared the seafood tower: lobster tail, crab legs, scallops, mussels, and oysters, paired with a buttery Chardonnay recommended by our host. The rustic-contemporary setting and local artwork made the meal as memorable as the food.

Loam Bistro brought global comfort flavours to the table. I loved the avocado croissant with guacamole, poached egg, and pea purée, while Jen raved about the potato latkes. Rahul, the owner, shared his culinary inspirations from around the world, and insisted we try the pistachio French toast, an indulgent finale worth every bite.

After our delicious breakfast, we headed for Capilano Suspension Bridge Park. The Park is more than its iconic bridge; it’s a legacy. Passed down through generations, it has evolved into a showcase of stewardship and regenerative tourism. Beyond the swaying bridge, we explored treetop adventures, the Cliffwalk, and forest trails highlighting the cultural and ecological significance of the region. Walking away with a certificate of accomplishment for having braved the bridge felt like a fun celebration of the journey.

After enjoying the park, we headed back to the Shipyards for a guided walking tour put on by MONOVA. Our guide, Sophie, was in character as a WWII shipyard worker and brought history to life. From employment cards to murals, she connected us to the workers who built the ships between 1940-45. We ended at the pier, standing before a mural of a traditional canoe. Sophie shared the “Paddle Song,” sung during the Great Vancouver Fire of 1886, when the Squamish Nation rescued survivors by canoe. It was a poignant reminder of resilience and community.

From there, we celebrated the present at local breweries North Point Brewing and Beere Brewing, and Copperpenny Distillery, each offering not just unique beers and spirits, but stories of family, passion, and place.

Tucked away just steps from the Shipyards, North Point Brewing feels like slipping into a cozy cabin retreat in the middle of the city. The brewery was founded by four lifelong friends, “cabin besties”, who wanted to recreate the feeling of those cherished getaways. The space is warm and rustic, decorated with wood accents and a relaxed atmosphere that makes you want to linger. Upstairs, there’s a classy gathering space perfect for private events, and owner Shaun proudly shared how they now do custom cans for corporate collaborations. Their beers are named after their kids, which makes every pint feel personal. Sitting out on the patio, I met Kyaro, a friendly Shiba Inu with her own Instagram account (@kyaroblackheart), which perfectly summed up the playful, community-driven vibe of the place.

Just a short walk away is Beere Brewing, run by Matt Beere, the head brewer and son of the founder. The space is simple and casual, designed for easy sipping and people-watching while the community buzzes around you. Behind the bar, Kalla kept things lively while pouring flights of some of their most popular beers. Their Go Easy Pale Ale is the crown jewel here—fresh, light, and endlessly drinkable. The IPA had that classic West Coast snappiness, while the Pinky Tuscadero Sour was bright, tart, and unforgettable. My personal favourite was I Love You, Say It Back, a hazy IPA bursting with juicy hops, the kind of beer that keeps you coming back for just one more.

On our way back toward the Shipyards, we came across Copperpenny Distilling, a Gatsby-inspired gem with golden accents and an atmosphere straight out of a movie. The story behind the distillery is as fun as the cocktails: owners Jennifer and Yan started the venture on a dare, “Gin made me do it,” Jennifer joked during our visit. Behind the beautiful bar, Ky mixed up a perfectly spiced margarita for Jen, while Yan shared their passion for creating spirits with locally sourced ingredients. Their wheat comes from a single-source farmer, Ebert Schutter, in Invermere, BC. Everything is mashed, fermented, and distilled on-site.

The highlight was their Oyster Shell Gin, created in partnership with Fanny Bay Oysters. It carries a smoky, mezcal-like depth with a briny finish—a flavour that practically begs to be mixed into a Caesar. While rooted in local collaborations, they also serve their beloved Czech Pilsner, the only beer on tap and now the number one Czech Pils account in BC. This balance of classic imports and experimental creations made Copperpenny a standout, a space that celebrates both community and craftsmanship

We ended the night with pizza overlooking the waterfront at King Taps. The Shipyards Boardwalk was glowing, a lively community where history, dining, and nightlife converge.

The next morning, it was time to head home. Leaving North Vancouver, I carried with me a renewed appreciation for this place where mountains meet the sea. It’s a destination layered with history, adventure, food, and stories, a reminder that among the skyscrapers, the forest and its spirit are never far away.