Day 1

Port Hardy to Prince Rupert — Fjords, humpbacks and more!

Northwest BC has been a bucket list trip for me for years. Being a lover of travel by ocean, moody rainforests, wide-open spaces, wildlife and Indigenous experiences, how could it not be?

I overnighted in Port Hardy on the northern end of Vancouver Island. The hotels there are well used to guests hopping on the ferry. My alarm went off bright and early to get me to the ferry for my 5:30am check-in. I was walking on the BC Ferries’ Northern Expedition Inside Passage ferry from Bear Cove to Prince Rupert. An 18-hour sailing according to the schedule, with a stop in Bella Bella. The itinerary promised stunning views of fjords, wildlife, and remote lighthouses — what it delivered was that and more.

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BC Ferries' Northern Expedition Inside Passage ferry prepares to set sail from Port Hardy.

For the ferry trip I had booked a cabin with a window and was pleasantly surprised to see I had this perfect little room with two beds and my very own bathroom complete with a shower. Over the next 18 hours, this space was where I relaxed between meals, exploring the decks and taking in the sights. We were blessed with beautiful weather and two humpback whale sightings along the way. Throughout the trip we were alerted to “Points of Interest”, including many lighthouses, First Nations communities, Hakai Luxvbalis Conservancy Area, a few old cannery locations — now essentially ghost towns — such as Namu and Bute Dale, and the stop in Bella Bella for passengers to board or disembark. Tip: this is also where you’ll get cell service for the hour when docked as there is no wifi on board the ferry.

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There were many “Points of Interest” along the way, including Dryad Point Lighthouse, First Nations communities, Hakai Luxvbalis Conservancy Area, and a few old cannery locations.

The Canoe Cafe, open for the entire trip, was where you could get all of your meals and beverages including a selection of Wheelhouse Brewing craft beer. Naturally, being the craft beer fan that I am, I got a can of the Flagship Pale Ale to go with my spaghetti dinner. The gift shop offered an impressive selection of items like t-shirts, mugs, coffee flasks and jewelry adorned with Indigenous art in addition to the usual snacks, magazine and books. I found a book called The City of Rainbows: A Colourful History of Prince Rupert by Blair Mirau. Since Prince Rupert was my first stop, I dug in and learned as much as I could. The book, described as, “A vivid and comprehensive history of the City of Prince Rupert, from its ancient roots as a rich, multicultural trading hub between different Indigenous Nations to its current state as an ethnically diverse community set against the stunning natural backdrop of the Great Bear Rainforest” had me engrossed from the start.

Blair Mirau is a born-and-raised Rupertite and former Prince Rupert city councillor. Since 2016, he has served as the chief executive officer of the Gitmaxmak’ay Nisga’a Society, which has been recognized with the BC Indigenous Community-Owned Business of the Year Award.

We arrived in Prince Rupert at 12:30am, disembarked at 1am, and local taxis were already there waiting to take us to our accommodation. I was booked for a three-night stay at the Crest Hotel, located just a few minutes away, so off we went. I was meeting my hosts from Prince Rupert Tourism at 7am for breakfast and a busy day of adventuring, so I turned in for the night.

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I took advantage of the Canoe Cafe's BC craft beer selection from Wheelhouse Brewing. Their Flagship Pale Ale paired nicely with dinner.

Day 2

A feast for the eyes and the spirit

Prince Rupert sits on the ancestral territory of the Ts’msyen Sm’algya̱x-Speaking Peoples. Ts’msyen means “People inside the Skeena River.”

It was only once I woke up and opened my drapes that I discovered my room offered a stunning bay window view of the Prince Rupert harbour. Other than when getting dressed, those drapes never closed again as I wasn’t going to miss one second of that view. My room was like stepping back in time in the best possible way, impeccably preserving the charm and decor of the 1960s when it was built. If you can’t tell, I loved it! The Crest Hotel opened in 1961 and has since expanded from 44 to 100+ rooms. The hotel is currently owned by the Gitxaała Nation.

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I was so ready for the non-stop harbour views from my hotel room's bay window.

I was picked up by my hosts, Jaimie and Kara, from Tourism Prince Rupert and taken to Cowpuccino’s Coffee House for breakfast. Located in the Cow Bay area, this cafe recently celebrated 30 years in business. Festively, the street around it was sprinkled with cow-themed decorations too. The cafe itself was warm and welcoming, serving freshly baked muffins the size of your head (well almost) and delicious espresso coffees. I had a canadiano in their aptly-named ‘Ludicrous’ size, plus a morning muffin. The perfect start to my adventures in Prince Rupert. 

Quick note: locals call it simply “Rupert,” and by day two, so did I.

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We found our breakfast in the Cow Bay area of Prince Rupert at the 30 year old local's staple, Cowpuccino's Coffee House.

Next up, I was booked for a 3-hour zodiac Eco Tour with RibTide Tours. We met for the tour inside the Tourism Prince Rupert Outpost and Visitor Centre — perfectly perched right at the cruise ship dock, this is Rupert’s tour-booking hub, where you can line up excursions, rent e-bikes, or get your questions answered before heading out to explore. Our guide Jess got us all suited up in thick dry suit-like gear and goggles. Our group of eight headed off down the gangplank and to the zodiac. The weather that day was proving unpredictable, and while it was okay enough to still go on the trip and into Metlakatla Pass, we wouldn’t be able to go everywhere that they usually do (e.g. Lucy Islands) because of the wind. In the end, it really didn’t matter to us — we were treated to many wildlife sightings including porpoises, seals, and a beautiful grizzly bear digging for clams on the beach. We felt truly lucky to experience that! Jess explained the history of the areas we visited, including how this coastline has long been home to the Ts’msyen (Tsimshian) Nation, whose traditional territory encompasses Prince Rupert and the waters we were exploring. I had read all about Metlakatla in my book and was pleased to see this was included in our tour. At one point Jess stopped and pointed to a couple of trees where “Al” the eagle usually hung out. She started whistling and then next thing you know, Al and a couple of other eagles headed towards us. Jess threw salmon bone carcasses in the air and the eagles swooped to scoop up the free food. Incredible. We then motored along the shoreline taking in Prince Rupert from the water, and down the inlet along the Rushbrook Trail to Seal Cove and stopped just short of the Butze Rapids. The three hours were over before we knew it, and we disembarked back at the Outpost. What a fantastic experience!

Fun fact: Prince Rupert is actually an island! The city occupies the northwestern shore of Kaien Island.

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All suited up and ready for the adventure ahead.

Lunch was at Bob’s on the Rocks, located at Rushbrook Floats. Opening in 2004, it originally catered to the local fish charter industry. In 2021 it was acquired by the Gitmaxmak’ay Group of Companies, a Prince Rupert-based Indigenous non-profit organization, and has since grown into an iconic destination for locals and visitors alike. We all ordered halibut and chips, sat at a giant picnic table, and enjoyed our feast!

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"Fish & Chips worth the trip"

Feeling rested and refueled, we headed out to Port Edward, about 15 minutes from town, for a tour of the North Pacific Cannery National Historic Site, which is set on a narrow strip of land between the mountains and the Inverness Passage at the mouth of the Skeena River. The place gives off an eerie vibe. We were told there are ghosts walking amongst us there, and I can believe it! The cannery was founded in 1889 and is BC’s oldest surviving salmon cannery. It had almost 90 years of continuous salmon production and fish processing until ending in the late 1970s. In its heyday, the cannery was one of over 20 in the area known as Cannery Row. Our guide took us back in time as we toured a series of buildings, along the way explaining the evolution of the salmon industry and also the cultural variation and segregation of the workforce (from Asia, Europe, and First Nations), and their domestic lives while employed by the cannery. The exhibits included a machine shop and First Nations net loft, the processing area and canning line, village housing, the company store, and more. Fun fact: a few of the bunkhouses have been renovated and are available to be booked for short stays — if you’re not afraid of ghosts, that is!

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After a couple hours of touring the site, we were hungry and thirsty. It was time to head to Prince Rupert’s only brewery, Wheelhouse Brewing, for dinner and some local craft beer. Wheelhouse Brewing originally opened in 2013 in a spot downtown and thrived as a locals’ hangout. In 2024, they had the opportunity to relocate to Prince Rupert’s original train station — a heritage landmark nestled at the water’s edge that was being refurbished at the time. A beautifully restored 2-storey brick and glass building offers a cozy vibe and a 270-degree view from the second-storey sunroom plus a patio out front. The kitchen boasts a full menu complete with wood-fired wings, nachos, meal-sized salads, and features a selection of 11 wood-fired pizzas. I started with a flight consisting of Blacksmith Brown Ale, Kazu Maru IPA, Latisima Gose, and the Gillnetter Golden Ale. For dinner I ordered the Prosciutto Burrata Pizza and a pint of the Foggy Harbour IPA. This New England/Hazy IPA smacked of tropical notes and burst with flavour. My friend, co-owner and head brewer Craig Outhet joined us for dinner and a lovely catch up.

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My Wheelhouse Brewing dinner of Prosciutto Burrata Pizza, a flight followed up with a pint of Foggy Harbour IPA.

What a full day. The icing on the cake was the sunset that unfolded that evening, and I had the best seats in the house from my room at the Crest to take it all in.

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From my hotel room, I had the best seats in the house for sunset.

Day 3

Cruise Ship Day in Rupert

Breakfast today was at the Tide and Table Restaurant in the Highliner Hotel. Diner style and offering a large menu, I ordered the French toast and bacon. The restaurant serves drip coffee, or you can head next door to their coffee shop, Coastal Lift Coffee Co., for espresso-based coffee — which I did. It was a great start to another exciting day ahead. There was a buzz in the air because today was a “cruise ship day” in Rupert, and I was soon to discover exactly what that entailed.

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Coastal Lift Coffee Co in Prince Rupert. (Photo: Tourism Prince Rupert)

This morning I was booked for a tour at the Museum of Northern British Columbia. As the museum states, “The purpose of the Museum of Northern British Columbia is to collect, document, preserve, study, display and interpret to the citizens of the Northwest Coast of British Columbia and their visitors, the natural and cultural heritage of the Northwest Coast from its geological origins to its present day and future development.”

Our guide took us through the rich history of the Northwest Coast Tsimshian (Ts’msyen), stopping at various exhibits telling the story of ancient lifestyles, the great feasts, and how some of the renowned works of art — like the bentwood box and the Chilkat blankets — were created. I highly recommend booking this tour if you’re planning to visit Rupert on your travels. We were asked to not take photos in the museum, so Tourism Prince Rupert provided me with some photos that they have been authorized to share.

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The museum features the rich history of the Northwest Coast Tsimshian (Ts'msyen). Photo by Simon Ratcliffe.

Through the windows of the gallery that faced the harbour, we spotted our first cruise ship and a second one, the Virgin Brilliant Lady, entering the harbour. Virgin’s ship housed 2,800 passengers, dwarfing the first one. Both ships had presold excursions for Prince Rupert, and soon the town was flooded with visitors — everything came to life with a happy buzz.

....and the second even larger than the first.

It was time for lunch, and my hosts took me to the Prince Rupert Golf Course to dine at Chef Neup’s Kitchen. A local favourite known for his food truck and private chef business, Chef Neup now serves Asian fusion cuisine combined with traditional comfort food at this location. Quite peckish at this point, I ordered a chicken wrap with fries and gobbled it down without taking a photo to share. Oops! The restaurant overlooks the golf course, which has stunning views of the misty mountains around us. Although we did not golf this day, the course does offer 18 holes, par 70, complete with carts and a driving range.

 

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Arrived at Prince Rupert Golf Course to dine at Chef Neup's Kitchen.

After lunch, we headed down to the waterfront, where the Lax Süülda Container Market was set up to welcome the cruise ship passengers. In Sm’algyax, the language of the Ts’msyen People, “Lax Süülda” means “on the ocean.” Continuing along the Millennium Walkway, we passed Wheelhouse Brewing again — today, with the cruise ship passengers in town, it was busting at the seams. Craig had tasting tours lined up and people were happily sipping delicious local beer on the patio and in every inch of the tasting room.

We made our way to the Kwinitsa Railway Museum next door. The museum provides visitors with a journey into the history of Canada’s northern railway and the many small stations like Kwinitsa along its route. Exhibits portray the daily life of the station master and crew, as well as the development of early Prince Rupert, from its days as the tent town at the terminus of the Grand Trunk Pacific Railway to its birth as a city in the 1920s.

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Cruise ship guests are welcomed at the Lax Süülda Container Market.

From there, we took a stroll through the Sunken Gardens — a hollow cavity originally excavated in the 1920s as the planned site for the provincial courthouse, though the building was ultimately constructed elsewhere. Its tunnels were repurposed to store munitions during WWII, and afterward, local residents transformed the leftover depression into a peaceful garden using the old concrete and brick foundations as a frame. Since 2003, the Prince Rupert Garden Club and local volunteers have kept it blooming. From there we wandered around the shops and murals of Cow Bay before ending up back at the Outpost.

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View of the Sunken Gardens, a transformation of the past.

Taking advantage of a whole slew of tours happening this cruise ship day, I was next booked on a vintage trolley tour of Rupert with Olde Time Trolley Company. Our guide Keith, behind the wheel of ‘Guacamole,’ took us to see iconic landmarks, Seal Bay Salt Marsh, and a variety of neighbourhoods boasting a series of murals by Artist Jeff King, and examples of 1940s wartime homes. Along the way, he dove into the history of the town, the story of town founder Charles M. Hays, his vision for Rupert, and his unfortunate demise aboard the Titanic. Very enjoyable!

BTW, are you a Downton Abbey fan? You’ll want to read this…

In Downton Abbey, Robert’s failed investment in a Canadian railway mirrors the real collapse of the Grand Trunk and Grand Trunk Pacific Railways, led by Charles Melville Hays. Hays had chosen Prince Rupert, BC, as the Pacific terminus and envisioned it becoming a major port city, shaping its early design and infrastructure. His death on the Titanic in 1912 left the railway without its driving force, contributing to its eventual bankruptcy. The show uses this real history to ground the Crawleys’ financial troubles in genuine early-20th-century events.

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Vintage trolley, "Guacamole" was our ride for this tour with the Olde Time Trolley Company

After the tour, I had some time to stroll around and stopped at the Ice House Gallery. Coincidentally, this was the original site of Wheelhouse Brewing. The gallery showcases BC North Coast Artists and a unique collection of artworks, clothing, jewellery, pottery, and likely the best salted caramel chocolate I have ever tasted.

I passed the Kazu Maru Memorial on my way back to my hotel. The memorial honours Kazukiyo Sakamoto, whose Japanese fishing boat set off from Owase — Prince Rupert’s sister city — on an ordinary day but tragically never returned. A year and a half later, it turned up off Haida Gwaii, remarkably close to Prince Rupert — some 7,000 km from where it had set off. Wheelhouse Brewing annually brews a Kazu Maru IPA, and this is why I chose to include this tidbit of history.

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Kazu Maru memorial honouring Kazukiyo Sakamoto.

After a bit of time to put my feet up and gaze at the view from my room, it was time to head out for our next activity — a 1.5-hour guided kayak around the harbour with Skeena Kayaking. Leaving again from the dock in front of the Outpost, Jaimie, Kara, and I, with our guide, paddled our way up the inlet. The timing was great — calm waters, intermittent bursts of sunshine — and we set out from beneath the shadow of the Virgin cruise ship docked nearby, making our way along the shoreline towards the Rushbrook Trail and Seal Cove. The golden-hour light was perfect, and the paddling was pretty easy — a relief since I hadn’t been in a kayak for at least six years. We found some seals playing amongst some buoys, and one followed us for a while. Outside a fish processing plant, at least 20 eagles were on the shore feasting on and fighting over some fish guts that had been left out for them. The majestic beasts paid us no mind. We turned around at the Saltmarsh and then made our way back.

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Paddling up the inlet with Skeena Kayaking.

We had dinner reservations at the Crest Hotel lounge-side restaurant, and we were really looking forward to it. We all ordered a whisky sour and cheersed to an amazing trip. We split this delicious, ooey-gooey bocconcini-stuffed bread with arugula pesto and sundried tomato oil to start. If that’s making you drool, it should. For my main, I ordered the blackened ling cod and prawns. The menu featured a substantial “tide to table” seafood selection along with entrées like rack of lamb, pastas, handhelds, and a handful of vegetarian dishes. I was too full for dessert, but if I had saved room, I definitely would have gotten the sticky toffee cake or the chocolate molten lava cake. It was the perfect end to the day, and we all left happy and full.

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Whisky Sours for the table. Cheers!

Day 4

So long Rupert, I'm coming for you, Terrace. All aboard!

Terrace, BC is located on the unceded traditional territory of the Ts’msyen (Tsimshian) people, specifically acknowledging the Kitsumkalum and Kitselas First Nations.

It was an early start for me since I needed to be at the train station at 7:15-ish to check-in for the next leg of my trip. I made a quick trip back to Cowpuccino’s for another Ludicrous coffee and muffin, taken to-go. VIA Rail currently shares a building with BC Ferries, so I was back where I started and ready to board my train to Terrace. The trip was scheduled to take 2 hours and 40 minutes. The porter stowed our bags, checked our tickets, staffed the canteen, and provided us with friendly banter and a sunny disposition for our time with him. 

Once I boarded, I was instantly taken back in time. The charm and decor of the car dated back to much earlier days. The unbelievable amount of comfort — ample legroom and a reclining seat with footrests — was a delight. We were all invited to head over to the canteen for hot and cold beverages and light snacks, and upstairs to the glass-domed car for a special view. We travelled along the Skeena River for most of the trip, offering stunning views of the ancient waterway. This particular route is part of VIA Rail‘s broader Skeena service, which runs between Prince Rupert and Jasper, with stops in a handful of small communities along the way — Terrace, Smithers, and Prince George among them, offering an entirely different way to see this stretch of Northern BC. It left me thinking of all the tales I’d learned along the way during my time in Prince Rupert. I left there vowing to return someday.

Aboard the VIA Rail train to Terrace, BC taking in views from the upper, glass-domed car.

We were a tad late getting into Terrace, delayed just outside of town by a freight train. Not unusual, we’re told, so if you’re travelling by rail, factor that into your plans. Mine were flexible, so once I arrived at the station — inside the George Little House (more on that later) — I called a taxi to take me to the airport to pick up my car at National Car Rental. It was a quick trip, and I was on my way to my first stop in Terrace: lunch!

 

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Arriving to Terrace at George Little House/VIA Rail Station.

Hot House Restaurant was highly recommended — in fact, it’s ranked #2 of 46 Terrace restaurants. The menu offers a choice of Indian (Davinder’s Dhaba) and Mexican (Claudia’s Cantina) dishes, along with a few burger options. I opted for the lamb curry, which came with naan. It was a generous portion, delicious, and served to me by Davinder himself. I didn’t partake in beer myself at this stop, but noted they had a great selection of local craft beer on offer.

A quick stop followed at my hotel for the next two nights, Quality Inn Sunshine Suites — a large, centrally located hotel with a ton of amenities, including breakfast each morning and a coffee and tea bar available 24/7.

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Lamb Curry served up hot at Hot House Restaurant at in Terrace, BC.

It was a drizzly afternoon, looking to clear up later, so with a few hours before my dinner reservation, I opted to take a drive to one of my own bucket-list spots in BC: the Nisg̣a’a Memorial Lava Bed Park (Anhluut’ukwsim Lax̣mihl Angwinga’asanskwhl Nisg̣a’a Park). My guy and I travelled to Iceland years ago, and at the time he said, “You know, we didn’t need to come all this way to see lava beds — we have them in Northern BC too.” About 100 km from Terrace, my first stop was the Nisga’a Visitor Centre, which offered opportunities to learn about Nisga’a culture, the local landscape, and the full story of the eruption just 250 years ago. My host there showed me three short videos — one on how the lava beds were actually formed (from a fissure, not a volcano), one on the local peoples who inhabit the area, and one on the oolichan, the small fish revered as a “saviour food” that arrived each year at winter’s end just as food stores were running low. The lava beds themselves were covered in lichen and adorned with fireweed and other wild flora, unlike in Iceland, where it was just lichen-covered lava — much more beautiful here, in my opinion.

“Roughly 250 years ago, the Tseax Cone erupted and sent a river of lava down the valley of the Tseax. The flow buried two Nisg̣a’a villages and reshaped the land for some 10 kilometres, damming the Nass and creating Lava Lake. It is the most recent volcanic eruption in Canada.”

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Nisg̣a'a Memorial Lava Bed Park where the lava is spattered with pops of colourful fireweed.

Dinner tonight was at Don Diego’s Restaurant. For 30+ years, they’ve been serving world-class Mexican and international-style cuisine, keeping it fresh with a menu that changes daily. I opted for the enchiladas, which were superb, alongside a paloma cocktail. The atmosphere was warm and relaxed — soft, upbeat music playing as groups of all sizes and ages settled in around me, everyone from young families to couples on date night. It’s clearly a spot that appeals to locals of every kind, and definitely a local favourite.

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Enchiladas and a Paloma were on the menu at Don Diego's Restaurant.

Feeling pleasantly satiated, and with it being a mild and clear night, I decided to do the Mural and Public Art walk around town that I’d postponed from earlier in the day. Move over, Vancouver — Terrace’s murals rival yours based on a few factors: the sheer number (dozens), the variety in styles, and the walkability of the display. Most of them exist thanks to the Skeena Salmon Arts Fest, a First Nations arts collective that has brought the bulk of this public art to Northwest BC. Map in hand, I had no trouble finding wonderful artwork around town. I’ve shared a handful of my favourites below — the perfect end to my first day in Terrace.

From massive murals that stretch more than 100 feet wide and 30 feet tall, to smaller detailed murals, the Skeena Salmon Arts Festival Society has worked hard with property owners, businesses and organizations to match owners who wish to beautify their buildings with artists who can create the vision they seek.

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The Sleeping Beauty Mural by Artist, Joerg Jungas, part of Terrace's Mural and Public Art Walk featuring dozens of artworks throughout the community.

Day 5

Skeena links, Canyons and Beers

I made my way to the Fairlie Cafe for breakfast. Located inside the George Little House, I was back where I first arrived in Terrace — this building was the residence of the town’s founding father, George Little. Today, Fairlie Cafe is a cozy community hub serving local Ascent Coffee, fresh-baked goods, and sandwiches, with a pretty outdoor patio bordered by flowers. My coffee was superb, but I must admit the cup had me perplexed for a second — I wasn’t quite sure how to actually drink from it, but after watching a few other patrons, I figured it out. It’s pretty clever, actually, and eliminates the need for a lid.

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Fairlie Cafe's very pretty patio served as the back drop for breakfast today.

It was time to head out for my first activity of the day, and I was excited to be meeting up with my Tourism Terrace hosts, Liz, Jessica, and Tracy. Just a quick 10-minute drive from town, at the foot of Thornhill Mountain, is the Skeena Valley Golf & Country Club — touted as one of the most scenic courses in BC, and you absolutely cannot argue with that. The towering granite rockface of Thornhill Mountain above the course rivals the Stawamus Chief in Squamish. We opted to play nine holes, best ball, and of course we got carts! You can also play a full 18 holes, for a par-73 championship-style experience. After the game, we headed to the clubhouse for lunch. Feeling quite hungry after our golf, I opted for the cheddar bacon burger. We dined with views of the course and the mountains around us.

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My Tourism Terrace hosts, Liz, Jessica, Tracy and I get a group shot.

I said farewell to my hosts and travelled on to my next destination, the Kitselas Canyon National Historic Site, a 15-minute drive from Terrace, nestled along the banks of the Skeena River. I arrived to find four interpretive buildings built in the traditional style of longhouses. Here, you can learn about the site, which has been an important place to the Gitselasu people of the Ts’msyen Nation for more than 6,000 years. The 1-km trail down to the canyon leads to the pts’aan (clan crest poles). At the end of the trail, there was a platform offering full views of the Skeena River and canyon below. I opted to go self-guided, but you can also book tours.

Kitselas Canyon was home to up to six ancestral Gitselasu villages, including the villages of Gitseax and Gitlaxdzawk, a fortified site, which made it unique compared to other Indigenous villages along the north coast. These two villages were occupied up until the 1870s.

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Views of the Skeena River from the Kitselas Canyon National Historic Site.

On my way back to town, I stopped at Kleanza Creek Provincial Campground to check out the falls I had been promised. Kleanza means “gold” in the Gitxsan language, and mining for gold was first carried out in the creek in the late 1890s. I didn’t find any physical gold myself, but the falls were really pretty, and it was a nice, quiet stop to relax before the evening’s festivities.

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Kleanza Creek Provincial Campground featured some very pretty falls.

After some quiet time back at my hotel, I strolled across the parking lot to Sherwood Mountain Brewhouse (I did say the hotel was centrally located!), where I had been invited to participate in their monthly “Mug Club.” SMB has expanded over the years from a tasting room and brewery to also include a beer store and a proper Viking-style beer hall for live music, comedy, and more. Beautiful timber and glass feature throughout the tasting room, patio, and beer hall.

The folks at SMB presented me with my very own hand-built pottery mug and escorted me to the beer hall to mingle with the locals and sample their beer. Parker’s IPA filled my mug, and off I went to mingle. Throughout the night there were draws for swag, and at the end of the evening, Erinn, my host, introduced everyone to the brewery’s new head brewer, Liam Murphy. If he sounds familiar, Liam had just relocated back to his hometown of Terrace after many years with Yellow Dog Brewing in Port Moody. Liam said he was spending some time getting to know the brewhouse, but eventually has some new beer recipes up his sleeve that he’d like to make. After a recent change of ownership, a rebrand, and now a new brewer, this local community hub is set to continue on its successful path.

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Sherwood Mountain Brewhouse was conveniently located across the street from my hotel.

Day 6

Deli delights and hiking to heights in search of wolves….

Quick check-out from my hotel, then a stop at Cafenara for coffee and a pastry, before heading onto Terrace Mountain in search of wolves. Cafenara was a vibrant cafe, and I would have loved to linger, but today I was on a mission.

Just 5 minutes out of downtown, and I was at the base of the trail for the Terrace WolfPack, a public art installation featuring six life-size metal wolf sculptures overlooking the Skeena River. Let’s go! The 15-minute hike itself was relatively easy, though rocky in places, with a decent climb of about 280 metres. At the top, sprawling views of the Skeena River and valley made my thumping heart worth it! Along the river below, people were fishing, and to the left was the Old Skeena Bridge, which had just celebrated its 100th anniversary in 2025 — I made a point of driving over it myself a little later that day.

The Terrace Wolfpack was created by Steve Rogers who operates Great Bear Ironworks.

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Views from the trail of the Terrace WolfPack.

Now a little peckish, I figured it was perfect timing to hit up Bert’s Delicatessen, another iconic Terrace business, family-run since 1967, known for its sandwiches, deli meats, cheeses, and all sorts of specialty items, pastas, and condiments — and, though I wasn’t there on the right day, fresh sourdough bread. Filled with Dutch salted licorice and other European treats and deli meats, memories came flooding back — I’m of European heritage myself and enjoyed these things often growing up. I was already fully caffeinated but noted they had a menu of special latte creations to pair with your sandwich. I could have easily loaded up, but I was flying home, and space in my suitcase was sadly limited.

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The iconic, Bert's Delicatessen, family-run since 1967.

The second-to-last stop on my itinerary was the Terrace Art Gallery, just across the street from the deli. A beautiful space for art, with a gift shop filled with local artisan crafts, the gallery featured two exhibits while I was there: “From Tow Hill to Terrace,” paintings by Maryanne Wettlaufer, and “The True Face Behind the Mask,” acrylic paintings by Stephen Mann. In many ways, the two were opposites — one grounded in landscape, the other in portraiture — but both were compelling, and Maryanne’s paintings in particular captured some of the scenes I’d seen along my trip.

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'From Tow Hill to Terrace', artwork by MaryAnne Wettlaufer.

It was time to head out, but not before I stopped at the Terrace Visitor Centre. Inside the quintessential log cabin structure was all the warmth, art, and culture of Terrace, there for visitors to enjoy. Grab a cup of coffee, peruse Indigenous and local artisan arts and crafts, rent an e-bike, grab a map, or ask the friendly staff for tips on all things Terrace. Terrace offers something for everyone. It has all of the amenities and shopping you could want, plus outdoor activities galore. Make this town a destination on your next trip!

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Log cabin that is the Terrace Visitor Centre.

I was off to Kitimat and Smithers next, where I’d eventually catch a flight home to Vancouver Island. On my way out of town, I stopped at Lakelse Lake on the recommendation of one of my new friends in Terrace. The lake serves as a local recreation site to beat the heat on a summer’s day, and I can see why — gorgeous, enormous, and something for everyone.

Thanks, Terrace! My first time visiting, and not my last.

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Stopped at Lakelse Lake to take in my last look at Terrace and its beautiful scenery.
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Inside Passage
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BC Ferries Prince Rupert Terminal
54.296086433798834, -130.35162332311498, Prince Rupert, BC
accommodation
Crest Hotel
222 1st Ave W, Prince Rupert, BC V8J 1A8, , BC
accommodation
Crest Hotel
222 1st Ave W, Prince Rupert, BC V8J 1A8, , BC
cafe
Cowpuccino's Coffee House
25 Cow Bay Rd, Prince Rupert, BC V8J 1A5, , BC
poi
Tourism Prince Rupert Outpost and Visitor Centre
215 Cow Bay Rd #190, Prince Rupert, BC V8J 1A5, , BC
activity
RibTide Tours
209 Cow Bay Rd, Prince Rupert, BC V8J 1A5, , BC
restaurant
Bob's on the Rocks
299 George Hills Way, Prince Rupert, BC V8J 2A3, , BC
poi
North Pacific Cannery National Historic Site
1889 Skeena Dr, Prince Rupert, BC V0V 1G0, , BC
brewery
restaurant
Tide and Table Restaurant
815 1st Ave W, Rupert, BC V8J 1B3, Prince Rupert, BC
poi
Museum of Northern British Columbia
100 1st Ave W, Prince Rupert, BC V8J 1A8, Prince Rupert, BC
restaurant
Prince Rupert Golf Course
523 9 Ave W, Prince Rupert, BC V8J 2S8, , BC
poi
Lax Süülda Container Market
263 Manson Way, Prince Rupert, BC V8J 3X4, Prince Rupert, BC
poi
Kwinitsa Railway Museum
poi
Sunken Gardens
Market Pl, Prince Rupert, BC V8J 1B8, Prince Rupert, BC
poi
Olde Time Trolley Company
815 1st Ave W Unit 1A, Prince Rupert, BC V8J 1B3, Prince Rupert, BC
poi
Ice House Gallery
217 1 Ave E, Prince Rupert, BC V8J 1A8, Prince Rupert, BC
activity
Skeena Kayaking
Seahorse Trading, 215 Cow Bay Rd Unit 105, Prince Rupert, BC V8J 1A5, , BC
poi
VIA Rail
2000 Park Ave, Prince Rupert, BC V8J 4P7, Prince Rupert, BC
restaurant
Hot House Restaurant
4728 Lazelle Ave, Terrace, BC V8G 1T3, Terrace, BC
accommodation
Quality Inn Sunshine Suites
4812 Yellowhead Hwy W, Terrace, BC V8G 1L6, Terrace, BC
poi
Nisg̣a'a Memorial Lava Bed Park
Unnamed Road, Gitwinksihlkw, BC V0J 1A0, , BC
restaurant
Don Diego's Restaurant
3212 Kalum St, Terrace, BC V8G 2M9, Terrace, BC
poi
Skeena Salmon Arts Fest
cafe
Fairlie Cafe
3100 Kalum Street, Terrace, BC V8G 4L1, Terrace, BC
poi
George Little House
3100 Kalum Street, Terrace, BC V8G 4L1, Terrace, BC
activity
Skeena Valley Golf & Country Club
3525 Golf Course Ave, Terrace, BC V8G 4R1, Terrace, BC
poi
Kitselas Canyon National Historic Site
Kitnayakwa St, Terrace, BC V8G 0A9, Terrace, BC
poi
Kleanza Creek Provincial Campground
Bornite Mnt Rd, Terrace, BC, Terrace, BC
brewery
cafe
Cafenara
108-4716 Lazelle Ave., Terrace, BC, Terrace, BC
activity
Terrace WolfPack
4404 Walsh Ave, Terrace, BC V8G 4J5, Terrace, BC
restaurant
Bert's Delicatessen
4603 Park Ave, Terrace, BC V8G 2N3, Terrace, BC
poi
Terrace Art Gallery
4610 Park Ave, Terrace, BC V8G 1V6, Terrace, BC
poi
Terrace Visitor Centre
4511 Keith Ave, Terrace, BC V8G 1J8, Terrace, BC

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Tourism Prince Rupert

A surprisingly cosmopolitan hub on British Columbia’s wild and beautiful Northwest Coast, Prince Rupert is a vibrant port town where nature, history, and personalities are larger than life.

Visit Terrace

A vibrant and growing city, Terrace boasts year-round recreational opportunities for the whole family to enjoy. The choices are endless: world-class fishing on the Skeena River, hiking trips through the backcountry, cycling along city paths or mountain biking down steep terrain. Go golfing at the base of a majestic mountain, raft down a raging river, or ski exhilarating slopes or along peaceful Nordic trails. Enjoy the largest northern music festival in spring or 10 days of Riverboat festivities in August. Stop by Heritage Park Museum to partake in a local event or to better understand our history.

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