Wild, Wonderful, and Wonderfully
Underrated: The Cariboo Ale Trail

Earlier this month, I packed up the “Explorer Mobile” (a rented Ford Escape), grabbed my son and his backpack full of electronics and pointed the compass north. From the snowy peaks of winter adventures to the rugged history of the Gold Rush Trail, we went in search of the perfect pint and some much-needed trail time in BC’s Cariboo region.

Here’s the log of our journey through the beautiful cities of Quesnel, Williams Lake, 100 Mile House and everything in between.

Following that miraculous 6:30 am wakeup call, we fueled up on Fruit Loops (which everyone knows is the perfect energy food), threw our bags in the car and hit the road by 8:00 am. We drove straight into a wall of thick Pacific Northwest fog that hugged the landscape all morning, turning the trek through the Fraser Canyon into a moody, cinematic experience.

The seven-hour push to Quesnel is where the “road trip brain” started to take over. You find creative ways to pass the time when you’re staring down the highway for hours. For us, it started when my son pointed at a field and confidently exclaimed, “Whoa, there must be at least a thousand cows in there!” By my quick estimation, there were maybe 300, tops. This immediately started the “Road Trip Cow Math” joke that followed us for the rest of the journey. If you see ten cows, it’s officially one hundred.

We finally pulled into the Prestige Riverside Lodge in Quesnel at around 4:30pm, marking the end of a solid day on the road. After hauling our gear inside, we took a moment to decompress. Our suite was impressive; a full setup with a living room, kitchen and a master bedroom with a king bed (obviously just for me). One detail I really appreciated was a bag of repurposed hand towels left in the bathroom to be used as rags for wiping down shoes or cleaning up spills. It’s a clever, sustainable alternative to single-use paper towels and a great eco-initiative by the hotel.

Dinner that night brought me to The Mill Pub. Unfortunately, my son wasn’t able to join as the Mill is a 19+ establishment, but he was more than happy to stay back in the suite with a Teen Burger, a root beer and a YouTube marathon on his iPad.

My dinner date that night was my friend Dom (@doms_ale_tales), who made the trek down from Prince George to join us in Quesnel. For drinks, we both opted for the Mucho Oro Lager from Barkerville Brewing, a crisp, golden steam beer. I paired mine with a hearty brisket beef dip while Dom went for the chicken burger. With the fireplace roaring in the background and the Tampa Bay Lightning pummeling the Florida Panthers on the TV, it was the perfect way to wind down from the first leg of the trip.

I ordered the “Eye Opener”, a solid foundation of breaky basics: eggs, toast and ham, while my son opted for a classic short stack topped with strawberries and whipped cream. Moments after our food arrived, our server returned and set a bottle of Corona down on the table. Now, I’m definitely down to party, but I didn’t realize I was at an all-inclusive in Puerto Quesnelo. On closer inspection, I realized the amber liquid was actually syrup for the pancakes. Honestly, what could be a more fitting syrup vessel for a Thirsty Explorer’s breakfast? Fueled by coffee, OJ and Cariboo Corona, I was officially ready for the next adventure.

The drive to Troll Mountain Resort was a picture-perfect winter trek through snowcapped forests with frozen streams running alongside the road. The resort itself is a time travel back to old school ski lodge charm. A rustic wooden lodge features two fireplaces, with a restaurant and a bar. The scent of burning firewood hits you the second you step inside, providing an instant feeling of cabin coziness.

The mountain features a T-bar-only lift system, which means your thighs are in for a 1,700 vertical foot workout. Luckily, I’ve been preparing for this moment with my Thighmaster and a stack of Suzanne Somers VHS tapes. Since my son is still in the learning phase of his snowboarding journey, he decided the T-bars and the patchy snow conditions weren’t for him. He opted for the luxury of the hotel’s free Wi-Fi and putting that backpack full of electronics to use.

Reaching the summit of Troll feels like stepping into a winter oasis, with endless snowy forests stretching in every direction. While this BC snow season hasn’t been the kindest for snowboarding, the long, groomed speed run down Astrid’s Alley into Bambi made me forget all about it. Tight turns, low to the ground, full charge! I could see how this mountain becomes a powder lover’s playground after a fresh dump, though; the lines and potential for face shots are everywhere. To quote snowboard legend Jeff Brushie: “I’ll be back.” Wait, maybe that was Arnold Schwarzenegger?

I had a quick shower back at the Prestige, then we linked up with Dom and ripped over to 1867 Restaurant. From the outside, the place is fairly unassuming and we weren’t entirely sure what to expect. But I’ll tell you exactly what we found, some of the most incredible sandwiches I’ve ever eaten.

I went with the Italian, a choice so appealing that Dom decided to order the same. The sandwich was so good, in fact, that my pants decided they wanted a taste too. I looked down after I devoured my meal to realize my thighs were now painted with marinara sauce. Boy, am I glad I decided to wear a white t-shirt and khakis.

After using some wet paper towels in the bathroom to unsuccessfully remove the marinara tie-dye, we made our way down to the Quesnel Visitor Center. The manager had a wealth of local knowledge on the area and pointed out that you can actually rent fishing rods and gold panning equipment right there at the centre. The river was a little icy for gold panning on that day, but I’ve noted this for a future trip to come back and strike it rich!

With map in hand, er, I mean, on my phone (this is the digital age after all), we set out on the downtown historic walking tour. It’s a fascinating dive into the town’s roots, featuring landmarks like the old railway station and the SS Enterprise boiler, where we threw out the Vulcan salute (where my Trekkies at?). We also visited an original Hudson’s Bay Company trading post dating back to 1863, which is believed to be the oldest HBC post still standing in its original location.

As we navigated around town, we kept an eye out for the “Little People“, a collection of painted fire hydrants spread throughout the downtown core. We capped off the tour with a walk across the Fraser River Footbridge, which holds the title of the longest wood-truss walking bridge in the world. Having scouted it earlier that morning, I can tell you that the sight of the frosty wooden deck overlooking chunks of ice floating down the Fraser is a stunning sight to behold.

Dinner that night brought us to the heart of the local craft scene, Barkerville Brewing. If I’m being completely honest, we actually swung by earlier in the day for a pre-lunch flight, purely for research, of course. You can’t truly write about a brewery without a thorough sampling of the tap list, right?

The tasting room is the definition of rustic meets cozy, with a custom-built, wooden communal table as the centrepiece and bar stools upholstered with recycled grain bags. During the day, the massive windows flood the space with natural light, but at night, the string lights take over, creating a warm, welcoming atmosphere. For a smaller space, I was surprised at the number of different beers on tap as well as ciders, wines and non-alcoholic options.

Having dedicated my afternoon flight to dark beer (52 Foot Stout, Painless Jones Schwarzbier, Hound of Barkerville Brown Ale and Prescription Porter), I decided to lighten things up for dinner. My second flight featured the Roadhouse Coffee Blonde, 18 Karat Amber Ale, Sluice Juice Hazy Pale Ale, and the freshly-tapped Wandering Camel IPA. The standouts for me were definitely the Sluice Juice and that 52 Foot Stout from earlier.

To soak up the liquid research, we ordered the Meat Pizza loaded with pepperoni and Gabagool (shout out Sopranos fans) and a platter of Street Corn Nachos. The nachos were the winner, piled with charred corn, pickled peppers and smoked paprika, all finished with a drizzle of chipotle crème sauce. It was the perfect conclusion to a day of adventuring, and by 9 pm, the snowboarding and the hops had caught up with me, and it was time to crash.

Our destination was Granville’s Coffee for breakfast and a cup of their freshly roasted coffee. My son and I decided on a divide and conquer strategy, ordering a short stack of pancakes and the French toast to share. Dom went for the ham Eggs Benny; rich, savoury, and delicious.

The vibe at Granville’s is kitschy in the best possible way. It feels like a roadside diner, packed with license plates lining the walls, a vintage gas pump at the entrance and an old truck bed converted into a couch. They even wrapped the ceiling panels in burlap coffee bags to round out the aesthetic.

After breakfast, we said our goodbyes to Dom, who was heading back north, and made one last essential stop at Quesnel Bakery to stock up on road snacks. The moment we stepped inside, our noses were hit with a heavenly aroma of freshly baked bread and sugar. When I asked for the “must try” item, the answer from the incredibly friendly staff was unanimous: the Boston Cream.

The verdict? That Boston Cream was legitimately world-class. It earned an official Hungry Explorer seal of approval, and we may or may not have polished it off before we even hit the highway.

With our pastry haul secured, we began the trek south toward Williams Lake. Our first destination was the Bull Mountain Cross-Country Ski Area. While the snow coverage was a bit thin for the peak of winter, it was still a great spot for some crisp hiking and for Robin Dawes, our guide for the morning, to strap on her skis and show us the area.

The lodge is a beautiful, state-of-the-art facility completed just a few years ago and features; running water, heating, a full kitchen and a rental fleet. It’s a true testament to the power of a dedicated community. Robin and her team at the Williams Lake Cross Country Ski Club secured the necessary grants, while local members poured in blood, sweat, and tears alongside donated supplies from community businesses to bring it all to life.

The terrain around the lodge boasts 30km of groomed trails through the forest, 3.5km of which are lit trails for night skiing. It’s also famously dog-friendly, which we found out while playing with Robin’s furry friend, Spruce. And although Robin has stepped back from running the ski schools, her influence remains everywhere, especially in the warming hut with her name on it, Robin’s Nest.

The next stop was the Williams Lake Tourism Discovery Centre. Not a word of a lie, it’s the most beautiful visitor centre I’ve ever seen. Opened in 2006, the 14,000 sq. ft. building is a masterpiece of log construction, built by Pioneer Log Homes (of Timber Kings fame). Which makes sense given Williams Lake is the “Handcrafted Log Home Building Capital of North America” (yes, that’s a real moniker). The centrepiece is a massive 52 ft, 745-year-old cedar that has a staircase spiralling around it.

It’s also home to the BC Cowboy Hall of Fame and Museum of the Cariboo-Chilcotin. The most memorable piece from the museum, and the one that still haunts my dreams, was the old foot-pump-operated travelling dentist drill. It squeaked an awful sound every time the museum coordinator stepped on the pedal. I shiver now just thinking about it.

The staff at the visitor centre were all so welcoming, and we greatly appreciated the private tour they gave us of the facility. It’s also important to mention that the facility is located on the traditional, ancestral and unceded territory of the T’exelcemc, who are part of the Secwépemc Nation.

After the Visitor Centre, we checked into the Coast Fraser Inn, and after giving our feet a rest, we took the short 2-minute stroll over to Fox Mountain Brewing. We walked into a packed house overflowing with locals enjoying the cozy atmosphere and delicious BC craft beer.

At the suggestion of the owner, Dave Reedman, I ordered the new Belgian Pale Ale. Dave honed his craft while brewing in England, earning a Diploma in British Brewing Technology at Brewlab, and that expertise shines through. The Belgian Pale hit all the right notes. That classic, slightly spicy Belgian profile is balanced with a hint of malty banana and a bit of cherry.

Fox Mountain’s food menu is extensive. I opted for the Fried Chicken Sandwich and “made it angry”, at the server’s expert recommendation, by adding jalapeños and bacon. My son faced a serious internal conflict between the hot dog and the Fox Smashburger, eventually settling on the burger. A decision he felt vindicated with after taking one bite. The food was delicious, and I’d visit Fox Mountain just for the culinary experience alone, but the fact that they’re also brewing top-tier beer makes it an essential stop.

We capped off the night back at the Coast Fraser Inn with a much-needed dip in the hot tub to bring our bodies into full relaxation mode. We had another big day ahead of us tomorrow!

We were greeted by the owner, who had actually done a little reconnaissance of his own on the Thirsty Explorers Club, and his hospitality was top-notch. He’s the kind of guy who opens the doors early just to accommodate a local church group. Which is something that happened just that morning.

Despite the Howdy Cafe being known for their smash burgers, I can’t pass up a hearty breakfast. I went with the fully loaded omelet, while my son went with a classic two-egg and sausage combo. As a final touch of Cariboo generosity, the owner sent us off with a bag of freshly baked cookies for the road. I’ll be back for that smash burger and some more cookies.

As we began the drive to Mount Timothy Recreational Resort, I quickly realized my biggest mistake of the trip when I opened up my Spotify Jam so my son could play some music. I spent the next hour getting flashbacks of being in “da club” in the 2000’s. Why is my son listening to T-Pain and 50 Cent anyway?

Despite a bit of misdirection from Google Maps, we found our way to the mountain for a bluebird day of riding. We started on the bunny hill, and once my son was too pooped out to continue, he retreated to the warmth of the lodge and The Yeti Cafe. I took this opportunity to head up the main chair for a few solo laps.

The conditions were great. The sun was shining, and there was a light dusting of fresh snow from the night before. I found some tight lines through the trees, my favourite spot to ride despite my wife’s disapproval, and was able to get some speed lines down the groomers. The terrain here is massive and wide open. I’ve already added it to my “must return” list for a powder trip next winter.

Once my legs started to get the Jello feeling, I joined my son in the lodge for an après ski meal: hot dogs and a pint of Fox Mountain IPA. 

With our gear packed away, we hauled it to 100 Mile House to arrive at the Days Inn to catch the start of the Super Bowl.

Check-in at the Days Inn was a breeze and the front desk crew lured us in with the promise of fresh, free popcorn. Being right off the highway meant we were only about three to five minutes from everything in town, making it the best base camp for the final leg.

With the big game kicking off, we planted ourselves on our beds and fired up the TV. I cracked open a BC craft beer and watched the Seahawks take a 9-0 lead over the Patriots in the first half. By the time the second half rolled around, our stomachs were officially rumbling.

We drove two minutes down the road to the Red Rock Grill, where the game was playing on a TV in the corner. My son stayed on brand with the smash burger, while I opted for a plate of wings and a salad. I figured it was time to finally reintroduce a vegetable to my system. I split the wings between Honey Garlic and Garlic Parm, at the server’s suggestion. I was a little skeptical of the Garlic Parm choice at first, but it turned out to be a great recommendation. Red Rock knows how to fry up a good wing, crispy on the outside and tender on the inside. Upon seeing the delight (or maybe that was just sauce) on my face, our server recommended we come back sometime for Wing Wednesday, as they introduce a new special flavour every Wednesday night. 

I washed it all down with a Dark Lager from Mt. Begbie Brewing. Which tasted as good as I imagine the tears of Patriots fans were tasting that night (sorry, not sorry, Pats fans). To cap it all off, we shared a slice of celebratory cheesecake that turned into a race to the last bite. Go Seahawks!

This place has that classic small-town coffee shop vibe, and I was here for it. They roast all their beans in-house, and their Americano was exactly what I needed.

I ordered the egg and cheese breakfast sandwich built on one of their freshly baked biscuits. While the sandwich was great, I spent most of the meal low-key beaming my son’s Belgian waffle, piled high with whipped cream and blueberries. I may have been just a little jealous. So, to satisfy my sweet tooth, I decided to grab one of their warm cinnamon buns to bring along on our next adventure.

Unfortunately, that cinnamon bun wouldn’t stay warm for long. Our next stop was at Centennial Park for a frosty stroll up to Bridge Creek Falls. Calling it a “hike” would be generous, though; it was more of a badly choreographed ice skate as the trail was completely packed with hard snow and slick ice.

As we danced our way up the path trying to find our footing, we spotted a coyote casually walking across the frozen creek. It stopped and stared us down for a moment, most likely wondering why these two humans were walking so funny, before disappearing into the trees.

The payoff at the end of the trail was spectacular. Seeing the power of the waterfalls as they hammered through the ice and frost was a highlight of the trip. We decided to take it all in right there, splitting our not-so-warm-anymore-but-still-delicious cinnamon bun while we watched the frozen falls in awe.

After carefully sliding back to the car, we headed to The Tin Cup Bistro. It’s one of those places you could easily blink and miss, tucked away in a mini strip mall off the beaten path. The interior is a mix of floral wallpaper and French bistro paintings, and they had vintage 80s golf matches playing on the TV. It’s clearly a local hot spot, as even arriving at 1:30 on a Tuesday, we were lucky to snag one of the few open tables.

In what was becoming a recurring theme for this trip, I discovered that Tin Cup also roasts their own coffee beans. Naturally, I had to order an Americano to see how it measured up. At this rate, I might need to launch a new Instagram handle. @CaribooCoffeeConnoisseur has a nice ring to it.

My son went with a fresh fruit and yogurt parfait, while I was subliminally influenced by the art on the walls and ordered the French Onion soup. It was the perfect choice for a brisk day.

After a little more exploring around town, our dinner plan was supposed to bring us to Jake’s Pub and Grill, but when we arrived, my son and I commented on how empty the parking lot looked. As we approached the door, we could see tables and chairs all piled on top of one another and a sign on the door that read “Closed Monday & Tuesday For Renovations”. Where others may claim defeat, we see opportunity. Thirsty Explorers never say die! Actually, that might be the Goonies. Regardless, we were ready for this challenge.

Knowing we had a comfortable room at the Days Inn and a laptop ready to stream, our next move was right in front of us. We hit the local grocery store for a haul of fruit, tortilla chips, salsa and snacks. It was time for a hotel movie night.

Ever the resourceful explorer, I deployed the room’s ironing board between our beds, lined it with paper towels to keep things tidy and created our snack-dinner table. Cracking a can of Backcountry Brewing’s DDH Widowmaker IPA, we fired up Kill Bill: Vol. 2 on the laptop-to-tv connection and settled in for a relaxing night.

I ordered a raspberry scone and a black Americano (the @CaribooCoffeeConnoisseur strikes again), while my son opted for a lemon muffin and a hot chocolate. While we waited, I browsed their collection of local artisan wares. I’ll admit, I was tempted by a handcrafted coffee grinder. It was a beautiful piece of craftsmanship, but I had a moment of clarity, spending $150 on a grinder that would inevitably become kitchen decor might get me in some hot water back home. I admired it from afar and walked away with my wallet intact.

We had our treats heated up and took them to-go to make our short trip across the highway to the 100 Mile House Visitor Centre. Perched right on the edge of the 100 Mile Marsh, it offers a beautiful view of the frozen wetlands.

Inside, the centre is a goldmine of information, but the real highlight was the vintage Gold Rush wagon on display outside. My son, being the car fanatic he is, immediately started dissecting the braking technology. He jokingly asked if stagecoach drivers back in the day would pull the e-brake, grab the reins and hit drifts around corners. After spending a minute imagining horse-drawn carriages touge racing through the gravel mountain passes of the Cariboo, it was time to head back to the hotel, pack up and hit our final stop in 100 Mile House.

As you approach the front door of Cask & Cleaver Brewing, the scent from the smoker hits you like an old-school cartoon being swept off your feet by a delicious aroma, mindlessly floating toward impending doom. Luckily, the scent led me into their tasting room rather than toward a mallet to the cranium.

Inside is an incredible Viking aesthetic with Norse-style artwork on the walls, eagle-head sconce lighting and a beautiful dark wood bar. Upon entering, I was greeted by Neale, one of the owners, who definitely fits the Norse theme with his towering stature, long hair and beard. But don’t fear an imminent raid, Neale was extremely welcoming, sharing his hospitality background and how he and co-owner Dan have built Cask & Cleaver with a customer-first mentality. The customer is number 1, followed closely by the food and the beer.

Speaking of which, the food was, no lies, the best I ate on this entire Cariboo trip. I ordered the Pork Belly Poutine, and the meat was pure melt-in-your-mouth, smoky deliciousness over perfectly cooked fries drowned in gravy. My son ordered the Cask Burger. While he claimed he wasn’t even hungry when we walked in, he polished the whole thing off, declaring it the “best burger he’s ever eaten”. I stole a bite, and now the thought of that smoked beef patty, oozing cheese and bacon, has me drooling as I write this.

Now on to the beer. First, I’ll say, it’s hard for any brewery to hit the trifecta: great tasting room, mouth-watering food and exceptional beer. Cask & Cleaver may have done it, though. I went with a flight that consisted of: Landing Party Lager, Andhrimnir’s Coffee Porter, Hazy IPA, and London Fog Ale.

• Landing Party Lager: A crisp, drinkable lager that nails a difficult style.
• Andhrimnir’s Coffee Porter: (Neale’s personal favourite) The perfect amount of coffee flavour, and it uses lactose for a creamy finish.
• Hazy IPA: I told Dan that, in my opinion, 70% of Hazys on the market aren’t great, but they nailed this one. It’s fruity with a great “mouthfeel” (a word I hate using, but it fits the description).
• London Fog Ale: I’m usually a skeptic of this style, but Cask & Cleaver have created a version that even I would order again.

The only disappointment from my visit was that Cask & Cleaver hadn’t received approval on their can labels yet, which meant I couldn’t grab any to-go cans from their newly purchased canning line. Hopefully, by the time you’re reading this, we can all get these delicious beers in a local bottle shop.

The final leg of this incredible father-son journey pointed us toward Lillooet Brewing Company. This winter road trip through the Cariboo has been one of the most beautiful drives I’ve ever experienced, but this last stretch on Highway 99 from Hat Creek Ranch to Lillooet was next-level picturesque. Winding roads following the mighty Fraser River through snowcapped mountain passes was like something out of a movie. It was hard to keep my eyes on the narrow, curving roads as I was admiring the landscape.

Speaking of the eyes on the road, we had a near miss with wildlife that I’m still processing. It wasn’t because I was distracted; it just appeared out of nowhere. I swear! You’d probably guess a deer, a moose, or maybe even a marmot, but you’d be wrong. It was an eagle. An eagle! It swooped down, presumably hunting a field mouse, and came so close to us that I’m convinced its talons brushed the windshield of our rented Ford Escape.

We made our way into Lillooet across the Bridge of Twenty-Three Camels. And no, I’m not joking. The bridge is named after a legendary failed experiment by a gold rush-era entrepreneur who imported 23 camels from Asia, convinced they’d be the ultimate pack animals for gold miners in the area. Unfortunately, the reality was a disaster. The camels ate the miners’ clothes, had a terrible odour, and terrified the other animals. It’s a bizarre piece of BC history, but it makes for one heck of a bridge name.

Anyway, back to the road trip. We drove through the small downtown core of Lillooet and made it to the edge of town, where Lillooet Brewing resides. The brewery is nestled in a valley with mountains in every direction, providing arguably the most picturesque views I’ve ever seen in a tasting room. One of these massive peaks surrounding the brewery is aptly named Mt. Brew, which Sacha, the owner, pointed out while giving me a tour.

Not only are the views outstanding, but the tasting room itself is a work of art. Sacha, a carpenter by trade, poured massive amounts of sweat equity into what was once an old feed store. He stripped it to the core, added expansive windows, refinished the floors and much more. Between the natural light, the wooden tables, the greenery and the old kayak hanging from the ceiling, the mountain town charm is off the charts here.

“But what about the beer?” you ask. In all honesty, with these views, Sacha could have served me a pint glass of puddle water, and I would’ve been happy. Luckily, the beer is far from puddle water. As a graduate of the KPU brewing program, Sacha knows exactly how to craft an award-winning pint. I sampled a flight of the Mule Deer Lager, Spotted Owl Hazy IPA, Wolverine English Pale, Mountain Goat Apricot Sour, and the Townsend’s Big-Eared Bat Stout.

The stout was my personal fav, though that might be because it felt like the perfect pairing for a fire pit session while staring at the snowy peaks in the distance. I’m seriously considering asking if I can pitch a tent on the property and just hang out for a week this summer. If you’re reading this, Sacha, let me know!

But wait, there’s more!

The journey didn’t quite end at Lillooet Brewing; we still had just under 4 hours on the road between us and home. Before we left, Sacha gave us a heads-up on the gnarly rockslides on the road from Lillooet to Lytton. He even shared a, uh, not-so-comforting story about a staff member’s grandparents who once had a boulder crash straight through their windshield and into their lap on this exact stretch of highway. Fun!

With my white knuckles gripping the wheel, we whipped through the winding mountain passes, dodging debris on the road and mountain sheep performing their own version of a road block. Now that I think about it, those sheep are likely the ones triggering the slides. Those suckers can climb.

As we hit the final stretch through Hope, Chilliwack and Abbotsford, the sky opened up into an absolutely epic sunset. Free from deathwish eagles, falling boulders and mischievous mountain goats, the quiet of the car gave my son and I some time to reflect on this epic trip. It took me back to the road trips I used to take with my dad when I was a kid. Just out there in the beautiful backyard we call British Columbia, searching for the next great adventure.

These are the moments where lifelong memories are made. So, my advice? Get out there and explore the trails. The Ale Trails, that is. (See what I did there?)

Cheers!